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XV CONSOLIDATION

 

The appointment of an Admiral had been left in abeyance since the death of Sir

Alec in 1991, but the end of Mary’s reign in 1994 was a perfect opportunity to

elevate her to that rank. At the ceremony of installation she was presented with

a crystal rose bowl engraved with a depiction of Rose Rambler and the dates of

her office, most appropriately accompanied by cavorting dolphins. In turn Mary

presented the Club with a silver tankard to be awarded for the most ambitious

or arduous qualifying voyage by a new member. It soon became known

affectionately as ‘Mary’s Mug’.

One of her first and pleasant duties in 1994, not exactly as Admiral but with

her Vertue connection through Hum, was to review the fleet of boats of that

design that had gathered in the Solent. Mary took the salute as 12 Vertues sailed

past the Royal Lymington YC some 44 years after Hum had made them so

famous. That connection had surely contributed to their continued popularity,

as five new ones had been completed the previous year and five more were in

build. It was both pleasing and profitable to see a regular advertisement for

them in Flying Fish.

The change of Commodore coincided with the expiration of Howard’s term

as Vice, to be replaced by Peter Aitchison who had been so strong in his support

six years earlier. Anne Hammick had become one of the Rear Commodores the

year before, and she was now joined by Geoff Pack as second junior flag

officer. Thus it was a largely new team who had the daunting task of maintaining

the previous impetus; fortunately the Club had attained such momentum that it

would have been difficult to slow it down.

Subscriptions were raised in 1994 with a remarkably small drop in membership.

It was an early but prudent move, as expenditure was daily creeping up while

the country was experiencing relatively high inflation. This rise in subs kept the

Club firmly on the road to financial stability so that it began to enjoy an upward

spiral – so much more comfortable than the previous downward slope. For the

next four years new members joined at a rate of more than 100 each year and

less than half that number left. By 1995 membership was above 1200, a rise

which has continued steadily so that today it is around 1800. This flush of new,

mid-90s, members provided a most useful windfall of joining fees, and the

periodic Long Term Cruising Symposia had also added a substantial injection of

funds.

It would have been easy at that stage to relax the self-imposed financial

strictures, but the Committee maintained a rigid discipline until it had accumulated

 

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reserves equal to one year’s normal income. Non-recurrent income and that

derived from the extraordinary number of joining fees was a bonus. This ambition

was achieved by 1995 largely due to the Membership Secretaries’ tenacious

chasing of backsliders. By then they had achieved a collection rate of 98%, and

the numbers needing to be struck off were steadily decreasing. Nevertheless,

the Treasurer and Membership Secretaries continued to maintain a very strict

control, apprising the Committee of the detailed financial position at every meeting

so that trends were spotted in ample time to apply a correction.

If Mary had largely healed the old wounds, her successor – the current writer

(see photographs page 237) – was determined to bind the Club together. She

had travelled widely to functions abroad, as had Howard Gosling, her Vice

Commodore, so that the administration was no longer remote but now contained

recognisable personalities. However, there was still some lingering suspicion in

certain corners of the world. An early visit to Australia by Jill and myself found

a membership of less than half of that of the heyday of the ’80s, but with a very

229-AussiesatSydney.jpg 

The perennial Australians – Kathryn Delaney,

Sid Yaffe, Carol Hocking, David Hocking,

Michael Delaney, Virginia Parsons and Nick Lowes

 

229

 

strong spirit and an almost proprietorial attitude towards ‘their OCC’ that was

thoroughly healthy. They had their own regalia and trophy, but the no-nonsense

Australians didn’t want any truck with club politics and had left in droves

during the troubles. Also, it must be admitted, their early numbers were rather

generously stated and included many non-payers who, over time, were weeded

out. However the hard core remained, with many well-known names such as

Wally Burke, Sid Yaffe, John Maddox, Charles Davis, David Hocking, Mike

Delaney, Pat Wall, David Beard and most of those who had made it such a

vibrant branch over the years.

The East Coast of the States was humming, but the concentration of members

had hitherto been north of New York. The 1994 Port Officers list shows 12

from New York and northwards, against only three to the south. One Rear

Commodore had looked after the whole of the eastern seaboard, and rallies had

always been on the North East coast. Sally Henderson (see photograph page

237), had ploughed a fairly lonely furrow at Gibson Island in north Chesapeake,

and our two representatives in Florida had to rely on passing traffic. However,

by the late ’80s things began to stir further south. Bill Caldwell had joined in

1988 and the following year he and his wife Alice organised a rally at their

lovely spot on the Piankatank River. With no authority other than enthusiasm

(he wasn’t even Port Officer), he went on to run an annual spring cruise-in-

company and an autumn party that became the venue for many local members

and itinerants who soon began to plan their movements around Bill’s dates. His

rallies gathered pace and began to rival northern activities, which until then had

been largely shore-bound. It was a neat reversal of roles as previously the New

Englanders had always shown the way. It soon became clear that a more formal

arrangement was necessary, so in 1995 a new post was created and Bill was

elected the first Rear Commodore USA South East. He came over to the AGM for

his installation, bringing along his proposer and seconder, and he and Alice went on

welcoming members to the Piankatank until he retired from office in 2002.

The 1984 census by nationality showed 75 Irish members, but this had halved

by the time of the next stock-take in 1993. In my annual address in 1995 I

analysed membership trends, and it came as no surprise that the highest rate of

recruitment was in those areas where the Club was represented by a flag officer

and, therefore, where things happened. There was always a healthy trickle of

applicants from the ranks of those who had at last achieved their ambition to

qualify, but the majority came from contact with existing members at Club

events. So by 1996, when the Irish fraternity had regained such strength that

they had become the fourth largest block of members after the UK, USA and

230

Australia, it was logical that they should have their own flag officer. There was

a problem however – previously the Northern Irish members had been shown

under the United Kingdom umbrella and the southerners as a separate country.

Whilst strictly correct, sailors tend not to observe such political niceties and

they made it quite clear that any representative from Ireland should speak for

the whole island. In due course Dermod Ryan was proposed by John Gore-

Grimes from Southern Ireland and seconded by Sir Dennis Faulkner from the

North. In good Irish fashion Dermod immediately set in train OCC dinners at

Dublin’s magnificent Royal St George Yacht Club – yet another test of stamina

for the UK flag officers who could not resist the invitation to join them.

A further initiative to bind the Club into a global family was to make all overseas

flag officers members of the main committee so that they received agendas and

 

231-PeterHaden&FlorLong.jpg

Plenty of stamina here – Flor Long and

Rear Commodore Ireland Peter Haden enjoy a game

 

231

 

Assent finds safe haven in Greenland

23b-Aratapu.jpg

Aratapu catches a williwaw in Patagonia

 

 

 

232

 

minutes and were thus kept abreast of the thinking and arguments behind

decisions. They were, of course, always free to attend committee meetings,

and some of them did, but by knowing in advance they were able to comment

on proposals before they were cast in stone. They were also to be consulted on

the appointments of Port Officers and Roving Rear Commodores on their patches,

and made members of the Awards sub-committee, moves which ensured that

they became much more a part of the active administration of the Club.

The Cruising Information Service (CIS) had had a chequered career, but a

determined effort by Anne Hammick in the late 1980s had put some order into

it, and when Pat Pocock took it on in 1996 and put it onto disc it became much

more accessible. However, it was always grossly underused for the effort

expended in its compilation, with only two enquires for information during the

whole of 1994. Pat therefore concentrated on those areas not served by pilot

books. In an attempt to expand its use the Royal Cruising Club was contacted

with a view to arranging reciprocity with their Foreign Port Information (FPI),

and an informal agreement was eventually made whereby cross-access would

be given on a strictly non-attributable basis.

Along with the new look CIS, the stock of charts housed at the Royal Thames

YC were at last brought to order by Donald McGilivray. These had been

obtained by Colin Fergusson when BP were updating charts for their tankers,

which apparently carry coverage of the whole world, and the Club was the

beneficiary. They were housed at the RTYC but were never much used as they

were difficult to access unless you were a Londoner. Donald produced

catalogues which at least made members aware of what was available, but the

uncorrected charts gradually became so dated that they were of little value

other than for broad planning.

One spin-off from the arrangement with the Royal Cruising Club, this time in

the guise of the RCC Pilotage Foundation, was the production of a joint

publication on the Pacific. The Pococks had just returned from a seven year

circumnavigation, almost half that time being spent in the Pacific, and had sent

much useful information for the CIS. Based to a large extent on this knowledge,

Mike produced a splendid tome entitled The Pacific Crossing Guide which was

published under the joint logos of the two clubs. Clive King, Rear Commodore

USA West, wrote a most evocative foreword which eloquently put that ocean

in perspective for those who hadn’t had the good fortune to sail it. Who could

resist the enticement of these words:

‘Hold the globe between your hands, placing Tahiti more or less

in the middle, and the full immensity of the Pacific is brought into

focus. Half the world faces you and most of it is water. For

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234-Pat&Mike.jpg

Mike Pocock, Commodore 1998–2002,

with Pat aboard Blackjack

234

Polynesians, Melanesians and Micronesians, this is home. They

colonised the myriad coral atolls and volcanic islands with small

sailing boats, humbling Western man with their navigation and

seamanship long before the era of European exploration.

Unlike the Atlantic, this is an ocean scattered with small island

nations, each spread over a vast area. Home is not bounded by

the seam of land and sea, but rather by a confection of water

and islands and reefs, and every Polynesian has family on the

next island, and the next. Mostly the people remain – by

temperament and by choice – immured from Western strivings,

choosing a more peaceful way to live. The lands and waters

have been kind to them, with tropical abundance, warm waters

and protective reefs providing for most needs.’

Not only was Clive Rear Commodore USA West from 1992 to 1997 and Port

Officer San Francisco from 1980 until leaving the States in 1999, but he also

spent much of his time cruising the Pacific. He built his 53ft Bruce Roberts

steel ketch Sonoma of the Isles in the early ’80s, and we were soon enjoying

yarns written in his lazy style through which you could almost hear the soughing

of the surf. For years he quartered the Pacific, changing crew and wives at

regular intervals and returning to the office in Sausalito when he needed to top

up the coffers. On one of his visits home he wandered down to the quay just in

time to take the lines of Mike and Pat Pocock who were entering the dock

entirely by coincidence. Not bad for such an itinerant PO. Clive clearly loves

the islands and writes so enthusiastically of them:

‘For the next three years, 1988 to 1991, Sonoma of the Isles

took me through Polynesia and Melanesia. Each year a new crew

and each year some months aboard and some in the office. Cook,

Stevenson, Gauguin, London, how they all wrote, painted and

told fine tales of the islands. And little has changed. So Tahiti

now has an air-conditioned shopping mall, Camembert-avion

arrives twice weekly fresh from Normandy, and the general French

silliness of rushing around pervades. But stevedores still put a

flower in their hair each morning, and that tells it all.’

Another year and another wife:

‘In 1993 Sonoma of the Isles was again restless, so we closed up

shop and sailed to Mexico and then back to French Polynesia.

Again we climbed the tropic hills of the Marquesas, wandered the

lagoons of the Tuamotus (home of the black pearls), dined and

danced with men of thunderous girth and swam in the shadow of

Moorea.’

 

235

 

While Clive was visiting old haunts in the south Pacific, the Engwirdas from

Southport, Australia were ploughing a lonely furrow across the north of that

ocean. Margaret and Andy had taken 11 years to build Bolero, their beautiful

56ft John Alden wooden yawl, and they nearly always sailed with just the two

of them. An exception was the shakedown which Andy did singlehanded to

New Zealand and Norfolk Island, 2300 miles non-stop. There is an old cruising

adage that you should not be seduced into calling at attractive ports on the way

to your chosen cruising ground, which they observe to a ridiculous degree.

They had long fancied Alaska as a change from palm-fringed islands, so in

1993 they sailed there, direct from Southport, 7600 miles non-stop, passing

almost within hailing distance of Honolulu. After messing around in Alaska for

a season they sailed home to prepare for their really long trip.

In December1995 they left Australia to visit friends in Amsterdam, taking the

clipper route south of the Great Capes. The Southern Ocean was frustrating

with a preponderance of headwinds but they were rewarded with a relatively

easy passage around the Horn:

‘When we neared Cape Horn, one last violent 60 knotter with

Bolero makes her offing

236-Bolero.jpg

 

236

237a-TonyVasey.jpg

Tony Vasey, Commodore 1994–1998, finds

a draughty corner mid-Atlantic

 

237b-Tony+Sally&Erica.jpg

Change of watch – Sally Henderson passes the baton to Erica Lowery,

congratulated by Commodore Tony Vasey

237

 

30ft seas and fierce squalls left Bolero shaking and trembling, as

were the skipper and his mate. By contrast the next day was

beautiful with a blue sky – grey had been the predominant colour

for weeks. On Days 51 and 52 we were totally becalmed between

latitudes 53°S and 54°S. An eerie feeling followed the storm,

and sitting in the screaming fifties with large swells and no wind

left a tight feeling in our tummies. Eventually 10–20 knots of

southwest wind came through, and we made the run for the Horn

with only 300 miles to go. On Day 55 Ramirez Island was sighted

and identified by a lighthouse, so our navigation was okay. The

Southern Ocean had been continually overcast and threatening,

yet here at the end the sky was crystal clear, the ocean an

incredible jewel colour and a spectacular sunset ended the day.

Swells from the southwest were whipped up by heavy squalls.

The tail of the great Andes mountain range slides into the ocean

on this tip of South America, making the sea quickly rise

thousands of metres to form a shallow bank. A wild place in

adverse wind and currents. In the early hours of Saturday 10

February, Day 56 of the voyage, Bolero rounded Cape Horn. We

didn’t see the ‘Old Ogre’ and decided not to wait around to take

a photograph. The swells and squalls continued and we began to

surf downhill at high speeds. Caution became the better part of

valour and we kept going. From South West Cape, New Zealand

to Cape Horn we had sailed 5568 miles in 42 days.’

On day 134 they arrived at Amsterdam, 17,100 miles without a stop. After a

four month refit they allowed themselves the luxury of day-sailing to Plymouth

so as to be able to pit themselves against the record of Francis Chichester, who

started his famous voyage from that historical port. Less than five months

from reaching Amsterdam they were off again for the non-stop passage home.

They reached the equator on day 26, exactly the same as Francis, and again

their times were the same when they rounded Good Hope on day 58. The

Indian Ocean produced mixed weather:

‘On day 75 we encountered the most serious storm of this leg, a

south-westerly of 40–60 knots. Horrifying. The swells looked at

least 40ft high, being conservative. The first front passed through

at a speed of 50–60 knots, the wind velocity increased even

further, gusting to 70 knots, and the waves mounted to 50ft and

were cresting. The storm had started with a strong gale two days

earlier, which gradually built up in strength and never abated, just

steadily worsened. Bolero has seen some bad weather over the

years but this would probably have to top everything. On several

occasions we were airborne and came crashing down into the

trough, and were repeatedly knocked sideways across the waves.

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239a-CafeSport.jpg

The ever-welcoming Peter Azevedo outside his famous Café Sport

(see page 242)

 

239b-Mary&JoaoFraga.jpg

Admiral Mary applauds the ever-helpful João Fraga

 

239

 

St Paul’s Rocks seemed to become a magnet, and despite all our

efforts we missed them by only 10 miles – too close for comfort,

and the nearest we had been to land since Plymouth.’

But it wasn’t all bad:

‘By contrast, after ‘our storm’ almost a week of lovely weather

followed. The sun shone and the wind lightened to a gentle 8–10

knots, usually from the northeast. The lightweight reaching sail

emerged out of the forecabin and could be raised once more.’

A reception committee had been arranged for their ETA, but strong southerlies

meant they were three days early so had the frustration of wasting time in

heavy seas so as not to cause embarrassment. The total voyage was 33,000

miles in 13 months. Discounting the potter in the English Channel, they had

made only one stop and deservedly took both the Australian Trophy and the

Barton Cup for this incredible endurance test.

The Club took some time to come to terms with the communications revolution

of the 1990s, perhaps because of the conservative nature of the then hierarchy,

but pressure from modernists such as Dick Guckel, Neil Wilkie and Andrew

Bray forced a move towards the new electronic era. In 1996 Dick started his

register of e-mail addresses, but even after a year the number listed was only

33. However it was a start, soon enhanced by the inclusion of other useful data

on member’s qualifications and expertise, allowing faster movement of

information between members. Brooke Davis of New York was well ahead of

the European thinking, preaching the merits of the internet with missionary

zeal. A questionnaire was therefore circulated, eliciting a good response and

showing that many members were keen and ready to embrace this advance in

communications. It is difficult now to cast one’s mind back to the era before e-

mail and websites, but there were a surprising number of luddites. Scotty Allen

replied, ‘We go to sea to get away from complications’, while Roger Fothergill

expressed his usual light-hearted view, ‘There are two computer buffs on this

island. Both are harmless but weird’.

A sub-committee under Neil culminated in 1997 with the Club piggy-backing

on the Conference of Cruising Yacht Clubs website and offering a page of Club

details for general consumption. One of the concerns in those early and innocent

days was the likely cost to the Club as so little was known about the functioning

of this new media. Coincidentally, Nickie Cooper, widow of recently deceased

member Robin, offered to fund a trophy in his memory. The Club already had

an embarrassment of awards but Nickie was sufficiently broad-minded to accept

the argument that the funds could be better applied to the creation and

240

maintenance of a website. The wheel had gone full circle since 1955 when

Hum, with his aversion to competitive awards, had persuaded the first person

to offer a prize to apply the money to reward ideas and inventions instead. To

obviate any major design costs, Graham Johnson offered to set the design of a

Club website as a project for his university students, with them being paid in

the kind that most students enjoy – food and beer. Much of the resulting site is

still in use today, ably run by Mike Downing as web-master.

Members were surprisingly conservative in their desire for colour in Flying

Fish, at first regarding it as an unnecessary luxury, but one improvement which

they did applaud was the production of much improved track charts. So often

good articles were spoilt by the reader not knowing where the writer was when

detailing his or her movements, so when, in 1996, Andrew Bray suggested they

should be drawn by Yachting World’s professional cartographer the offer was

enthusiastically endorsed.

During the course of my travels as Commodore I had noticed that the flying

fish logo had developed many variants, from the slim-line, high-speed model

depicted on the cover of the magazine to the rather jolly smiling fellow on the

burgee. The Australian fish had mutated to a rather lethargic chap who seemed

to be having difficulty getting airborne, and individual members had coined

their own depending on their artistic abilities. So in 1996 Colin Mudie, who had

designed the original logo some 40 years earlier, was asked to redraw the

‘definitive fish’. The result was the much happier chap first seen cavorting on

the cover of Flying Fish on the second issue of 1997 and who has since been

adopted worldwide.

In 1997 a member of long-standing telephoned Flying Fish editor Anne

Hammick saying how much he enjoyed the magazine and that he wished to

help financially if the Club was in need of updating its production facilities.

The result was a complete new package of hardware and software which

enabled faster and more modern editing with an improvement in efficiency

and quality. It should be known that this same anonymous donor has also

largely paid for the production of this record of the Club, of which he is so

proud to be associated.

During the 1990s there was a rash of clubs asking for a form of affiliation with

the OCC. This may have been partly due to the higher profile which the Club

had attained, and certainly some clubs enjoyed the international contact and

hoped that association with such a thriving organisation would rub off on their

members. The OCC has little to offer in reciprocation and this was made clear,

but nevertheless an agreement was arranged whereby our members could enjoy

241

the use of several other clubs’ premises, those clubs, in return, being allowed

to show the affiliation in their publications.

Fred Brown became well-known throughout the Club for his promptness in

responding to requests for regalia, usually posting the item within 24 hours, but

in 1996 he became ill and died still in harness. How the genial Fred managed

such efficiency will never be known, as he spent plenty of time on his boat and

hardly ever missed an Azores rally or Azores and Back Race (AZAB). Martin

Thomas stepped into the gap and his non-sailing secretary, Gladys, soon became

as familiar with the terminology of nautical accoutrements as she was with her

normal medical routine, but by 1998 she felt that the extra pressure was becoming

too much and Jill Vasey was persuaded to take it on. Jill particularly enjoyed the

wide contact within the Club, and after five years of exchanging chatty notes

to applicants felt that she had made hundreds of friends across the world. Her

most treasured request came from Erling Lagerholm, who had been one of

the Drumbeat recruits in the 1950s. He wrote on birch bark as follows: ‘This

stationery comes to you through the courtesy of some damn beaver who gnawed

down the last birch tree on our little island in the North Channel of Lake Huron.

Please send me an 18 inch nylon burgee’.

Perhaps it was a sign of the maturity of members’ cruising habits rather than of

boredom, but after nearly 20 years the Azores rally began to lose its attraction.

The first meet in 1977 had been a bit of a damp squib when only one boat

reached the islands, but the 1981 gathering was a resounding success and

every other year since then the Club had held its popular pursuit race. However

in 1996 it was difficult to raise enough entries to make it worthwhile, so with

regret it was suspended. The rallies had been made especially enjoyable by the

welcome and assistance given by Peter Azevedo and João Fraga (see photograph

page 239), and the citizens of Horta had taken the Club to their hearts, simply

referring to it as ‘The Club’, the definition of ‘Ocean Cruising’ being considered

superfluous.

It was in no way a substitute for the Azores, but in 1996 the Club held its first

Falmouth rally. It quickly gained popularity so that it is now established as the

annual end of season rally in the way the Beaulieu opens the sailing year for the

UK members. It was gratifying to welcome four yachts returning from North

America in 1997, and in 2000 it was the start of the most successful Millennium

Rally when boats left for the Atlantic-wide celebrations.

Our heroines seem to come in small packages. The brief but spectacular exploits

of the diminutive Clare Francis have already been described, and her prowess

242

was later rivalled by another dynamic figure, Mary Falk. Mention has already

been made of her determination when wearing her lawyer’s hat, but she has

shown herself equally resolute when on the water. She is strictly a racer but

this does not lessen the contribution that she has made to the Club as a whole.

After two terms on the Committee she was promoted Rear Commodore and

we have long benefited from her advice on legal matters. Furthermore she

arranged for the Committee to use the boardroom at her solicitor’s firm, which

was a marked step up from some of the places previously used. Her first boat

was a UFO 34, Quixote, in which she cut her singlehanded racing teeth first

with an AZAB and then in OSTAR when she came fourth in class. This whetted

her appetite, so in 1990 Mike Pocock designed her a one-off with the express

purpose of campaigning the OSTAR, which she did with impressive success.

QII is a 35ft water-ballasted sloop, not particularly extreme to look at but

certainly extremely fast. There is a single wrap-around seat midships, facing

the control console, with a full seat harness with which Mary tethers the boat

to her person. She then drives it like the rally car for which the seat and harness

were designed. In her first OSTAR with QII she came second in class, but in

1996 she was the first woman to win a class in the history of the race. But that

was not all – she took more than a day off the class record, beat all the class

above her, all but one in the 45ft class and all but two monos in the 50ft class.

Unlike Clare Francis, Mary has continued racing hard with many more

successes to her name. Not surprisingly she became known as the fastest

single-hulled lady on the North Atlantic.

The Committee stuck to their principles and resisted awarding Mary a trophy,

even the short-handed Rose Medal, since all the awards cite meritorious cruises.

However, in 1992 they did find it in their hearts to recognise the great contribution

she had made to sailing generally and in raising the profile of the Club with the

presentation of the OCC Award.

While Mary was racing across the North Atlantic another of our female members,

Fran Flutter, was ploughing a solo furrow around the world in her 35ft Cartright

sloop Prodigal.

She left Falmouth in 1995 and reached New Zealand in 1996, for which she

was awarded the Rose Medal. The following year she continued via Australia,

where she sailed inside the Barrier Reef, before crossing the Indian Ocean to

Cape Town. The final leg took her home via the Azores with a stop at St Helena

– not an easy venue when singlehanded, but Fran found the usually boisterous

anchorage relatively tranquil. She remarks, reflectively, ‘St Helena is a fascinating

island – I’ve never met anyone who didn’t enjoy their visit. Historically, that

opinion might have found a few dissenters! Napoleon Buonaparte’s melancholic

243

decline is well known, the fact that 6000 prisoners of the Boer War were detained

here much less so’.

On completing her circumnavigation Fran was awarded the Barton Cup.

In 1997 we read for the first time of a member visiting Japan and the Russian

Far East. Noël Marshall had worked his way to that unlikely spot after a leisurely

Pacific crossing aboard his Hallberg-Rassy 38 Sadko, having been joined by

Ann Fraser in Guam. Leisurely is perhaps putting it too kindly, since he took 64

days for a very frustrating 4400 miles from the Galapagos to Hawaii, having

been imprisoned by El Niño with a knot of current against them instead of the

charted favourable knot. Noël made no secret of the fact that his only reason

for visiting Japan was because it was the most convenient place to obtain a

Russian visa, but he then stayed for four months. However it was something of

a cultural shock, both on and off the water. When shopping he noted:

‘At first glance a Japanese supermarket looks very much like its

European equivalent, but when you examine the shelves they

contain rack after rack of strange-looking products, beautifully

wrapped in user-friendly portions – if only you knew how to use

them. There is much less tinned and packaged food.

Conspicuously, there are no long racks of biscuits and breakfast

foods.’

After getting visas in Osaka they sailed west through the inland sea:

‘Between Honshu and Awaji islands we passed below the

construction work on the longest suspension bridge in the world,

which will have a central span 2km long. Everywhere the density

of shipping, combined with fishing boats, was heavier than in the

Dover Straits on a bad day. Japanese captains have strong

nerves, and the yacht skipper will get used to sailing at closer

quarters than he would hope to meet in the English Channel.

Supertankers negotiating sensitive points, such as the huge

suspension bridges, are escorted by a pattern of ocean-going

tugs. Sadko was nearly barged from the water a long way

from the approaching tanker, by a tug proceeding to such

duties which evidently claimed absolute right of way

notwithstanding the Col Regs! It was easy to see why night

sailing was not recommended.’

Noël is a retired diplomat who speaks fluent Russian, an almost essential attribute

in overcoming Russian bureaucracy and its innate suspicion of foreigners. With

some trepidation, but with the appropriate bits of paper, they entered the

previously forbidden port of Vladivostok and were directed by port control to

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anchor off to await clearance. This clever ploy to put off a difficult decision

was neatly solved after a five hour wait by a passing motor boater who asked

what they were doing. Noël explained that they were awaiting clearance, to

which the local replied, loosely translated, ‘Oh, stuff that, you’ll be there all

night. Follow us to the yacht club’.

Ann had a contact in Siberia and had been invited to visit if they succeeded in

reaching Russia. They both flew to Lake Baikal, where the friend arranged for

them to charter a boat in which they cruised the lake for several days. Hardly

ocean cruising, but surely a first for the OCC if not for any Western sailors.

In that same year tragedy struck when Geoff Pack, UK Rear Commodore, died

at only 39 years after a short but valiant fight against cancer, leaving Loulou

with four children under eleven. Geoff was a great hairy bear of a man, always

full of humour and a mine of information on sailing matters. He had edited

Yachting Monthly for only four years but was so respected in the world of

yachting journalism that IPC Magazines, his bosses, created a scholarship for

embryo journalists in his name. They also funded an OCC trophy, the Geoff

Pack Memorial Award, which it was decided to award annually to the person

Loulou Pack presents Mike Richey

with the first Geoff Pack Memorial Award

 

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Sadko, a stranger in Japanese waters

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who, by his or her writing, had done most to foster the ideals of the Club.

Although the award was to be open to all, the Committee had little difficulty

in deciding the name of the first winner – Mike Richey, who had written so

attractively for so long on sailing generally and on his many transatlantic passages

in Jester. There was no doubt that many armchair sailors had been inspired by

Mike’s low-key but evocative writing and the fact that he had recently spent his

80th birthday at sea, singlehanded. Geoff’s widow Loulou made the presentation

at the London Boat Show, IPC being represented by James Jermain who had

taken over from Geoff as editor of Yachting Monthly and who spoke movingly on

Geoff’s distinguished, but sadly curtailed, journalistic career. Andrew Bray, editor

of Yachting World, subsequently took Geoff’s place as one of the UK Rear

Commodores, thus maintaining the Club’s close link with the yachting press.

The British have made Shackleton their hero, but he was an Irishman and

Paddy Barry planned to resurrect memories of the best-remembered event of

his fellow countryman’s life of glorious failure. In 1997 Paddy built a replica of

Shackleton’s James Caird, naming her Tom Crean, and shipped her to Elephant

Island, the starting point of the explorer’s epic voyage 81 years earlier. To have

sailed at Easter, as did Shackleton, would have been to court unnecessary

disaster, so they left in January, the Antarctic summer. But to attempt a 700

mile passage in a 23ft whaler in the Southern Ocean at any time of the year had

to be hazardous in the extreme, and with five men in a boat of that size life was

very cramped. Paddy describes the normally simple operation of changing watch:

‘My back is stiff with the cold and damp. I took a couple of Bruefen,

which help. God, has it been cold, wet and miserable, even in the

good weather. The cabin is so confined. Watch change is a major

hassle getting out of oilies, putting them somewhere, getting off

gloves, hats and boots, putting them where you hope you will

find them – best under your head for a pillow – contorting feet

first into the bag inside its cover, all damp. I pull my socks (two

pairs) and gloves into the bag with me. Then at the end of your

off-watch, the opposite. Your feet would barely have warmed up

in the bag but it’s time to get out again – head first – onto your

knees, sideways, turn around, sitting in your dry gear on someone

else’s wet gear. We try and get oily trousers on inside the cabin

and then as quick as can in the cockpit get on jacket, gloves,

harness and hood up. Handling the boat is the easy bit.’

After five days of relatively good progress conditions deteriorated:

‘Wind and sea rose to a greater extent than the previous two

gales, and kept on rising and rising. By nightfall the wind was

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 248-tomcrean.jpg

Paddy Barry’s Tom Crean

a replica of Shackleton’s James Caird – on sea trials

 

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lifting water, not just off wave-tops, off the seas. These grew first

into regular big even crests of maybe 30ft, but then became

steep walls of water, the crests tumbling down, being wind carried

off in flying spume. We put the sea anchor out from the bow; it

seemed to make no difference. To look directly into the wind

wasn’t possible as the flying spume would cut into your face and

eyes.

The boat was lying beam-on, try as we did to keep her head to

windward. With all other sail down and the tiller lashed to lee, we

raised a triangular piece of mizzen which brought her head around

about 20°, thus bringing the seas ahead of the beam. But the

seas became irregular altogether and now were coming from all

directions. We were pointing upwind, downwind, lying, running,

we were tossed and battered about below like being inside a

washing machine; wedged in, waves belting the boat, first on

one side, then the other, then the deck.

About 0400 Saturday morning we were all below, battered,

cold, eating the odd Mars bar with water, when a great hissing

sound rose above the now familiar racket. I was in a sleeping

bag and sort of stiffened at this new sound. Then I felt us being

carried bodily sideways, swept, and then the silence. We were

upside down.

Slowly forever, for there was nothing we could do, she lay

upside down before rolling back, when we all scrambled to the

side of the cabin to help her. Amazingly, all the spars and sails

were in place, and no damage had been done except to burgees,

antenna and so on.

Twice in the next twelve hours we were again rolled, same

story. We radioed Pelagic (their mother ship) for any weather

information. They had been registering wind speeds of 50–60

knots sustained and Pelagic had been knocked on her beam by a

‘Shackleton wave’. Their wind was now southwest, 40–50 knots,

the sea completely white. Air temperature 4°C. Three cyclonic

depressions were on their way and if we did not get north of

them we would be hit by all of them. They called a US specialist

weather outfit and an hour later gave us the bad news – for the

next ten days a deepening low, going down to 965mbs, would

give northerlies all over the area, with another 60 knot session

in about three days time.’

Very reluctantly they called in the ‘mother ship’and scuttled Tom Crean. Pelagic

then took them on to South Georgia and put them ashore in King Haakon Bay

where Shackleton had landed, and from there they made the traverse to

Stromness, no mean feat in itself. Thus Paddy and his crew achieved another

magnificent failure in heroic Shackleton style, but a failure of such merit that it

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will go down in the annals of this Club as a memorable success. To use another

Paddy quote (borrowed from Addison): ‘tis not in mortals to command success,

but we’ll do more Sempronios, we’ll deserve it’.

Another outstanding exploit down in the Southern Ocean to be recognised by

the Club that year was the truly heroic rescue of Raphael Dinelli by Pete

Goss. It may be remembered that Raphael had capsized in the Around Alone

race while out of range of shore-based rescue, the only hope of saving his life

being Pete if he could get back to him. Against gale force winds he beat back

and found Dinelli at dusk clinging to his upturned boat. Pete was given the OCC

Award of Merit and the Club made a strong recommendation to the Prime

Minister that he should receive a national bravery award. In the event he was

given a sporting award that was certainly not adequate recognition of the heroism

of his actions.

 

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