EXPLORING THE EASTERN BALTIC

Alan Logan

GENERAL

Following our 1990 tour of the Black Sea coast of what was then the USSR (Flying Fish 1991/1), in 1992 we explored the cruising possibilities of the Baltic shores of the now defunct USSR. Unlike the Black Sea where my 44ft ketch Katy II was the first foreign vessel in several places, we found that some Finnish, Swedish and German yachts had preceeded us. While many obstacles remain, the general situation is certainly greatly improved over that prevailing in the Black Sea in 1990.

Visas to the three Baltic states are easy to obtain. Russian (formerly Soviet) consulates still require formal invitations from yacht clubs or other authorized entities and, while such invitations are more readily available, the consulates are not consistent in issuance of visas. The consuls in Marseille and Washington DC issued visas for entry of Katy II and six of us for Vyborg, St Petersburg and Kaliningrad in less than an hour. In contrast, several yachts, including participants in the OCC Baltic Sea Rally, obtained visas in Helsinki for St Petersburg alone after much uncertainty and delay. Hopefully Russia will join other world countries and issue visas for the country as a whole rather than just to designated towns.

We were favourably impressed by the responsive attitude of immigration and customs officials everywhere we went, including Russia. Clearance was usually quick and efficient. For example, Russian authorities accepted our cruise as `cabotage' between Russian ports even though we crossed international waters and made many stops in the Baltic states on our way. We were even able to arrange a still exceedingly rare visa on arrival for one of my crew.

We were not subject to the questioning and boat searches we had encountered in 1990. A more flexible attitude toward the application of regulations and procedures can probably be attributed to a weakening of central control in a period of great uncertainty, as well as a desire to demonstrate openness to the West. Nevertheless, the process is still complex and many forms have to be filled out in all the countries we visited. Retention of these controls by the three Baltic states in contrast to the much more relaxed approach in Scandinavia is possibly a legacy of Soviet practice, but has also been attributed to their need to affirm their sovereignty in order to control entry of Russians and other former Soviet nationals. Even Poland subjects all yachts to thorough processing at every stop. The former German Democratic Republic fortunately has adopted the very relaxed attitude of West Germany.

There seems to have been little change in the proclivity of the Russian coastguard, the `pogronichniki' in their well-armed `vel-boats', to consider all small craft as potential threats to national security to be harassed, rather than welcomed as foreign guests to be assisted. We and other yachts in Russian waters were subject to repeated inspections by large patrol craft, which rocked us ominously with their wake as they circled us at night under the glare of powerful searchlights. One large British motor yacht was rammed by a patrol boat - presumably accidentally - and suffered some damage. We had been advised to call the patrol boats on VHF channel 10 using their designation of `Vyborg Pyats (5)', but they very seldom replied. At least we were not boarded, as we had been twice in the Black Sea. For those who can not speak Russian, the inability to communicate under such conditions must be rather unsettling.

Another welcome development is the eagerness of local authorities to encourage and facilitate yacht tourism. While they are acting in part in the hope - often exaggerated - of economic benefits, the primary motivation appears to be a desire take advantage of the removal of restrictions to encourage fruitful contacts with the West. Estonia in particular is making a serious effort to encourage yacht tourism to its many attractive ports, medieval towns and protected seaways, and is believed to have had a successful season in its first year of independence. Every port we visited had, with central government encouragement, set aside moorings for visiting vessels and designated an official to collect reasonable fees and make available what are usually modest services. While initially Estonia adopted the Soviet practice of requiring invitations or the equivalent of INTOURIST hotel vouchers, the few existing Estonian consulates in fact granted visas freely for yachts. Latvia and Lithunia also are working to attract foreign vessels.

There is considerable competition between yacht clubs in the St Petersburg area to attract foreign cruising vessels, and several individuals are eagerly promoting yacht tourism. In the past, obtaining invitations acceptable for issuance of visas was often the result of a lucky chance encounter with a member of a Russian yacht club and persistence in overcoming bad communications with Leningrad. Now, communications by fax, telex and even telephone are much improved and invitations can be obtained from several sources.

Although the majority of Russian yachtsmen want more foreign visitors, there are exceptions reflecting the traditional ambivalent Russian attitude toward foreigners. This is well demonstrated by the inner politics of the Rechnoi Yacht Club which, like many other athletic and sporting facilities in the USSR, was taken over by and is nominally under the financial and policy control of the Central Confederation of Trade Unions as a sports facility for the Soviet people. Some members of its governing committee object that facilities established, financed, and operated for the Soviet people should now be diverted for foreigners. It is important for visiting yachts to be aware of this minority attitude, which we also encountered in Odessa in 1989.

In most of the former Soviet Union facilities for yachts are generally very primitive. Despite frequent over-ambitious plans to build swanky marinas with hotels and restaurants, serious internal economic problems resulting from Russia's attempts to transform its economy, and from the political and economic break of the three Baltic states with the former Soviet Union, have limited their ability to respond to the needs of the foreign cruising community. Only the relatively luxurious Olympic Centre at Pirita near Tallinn offers facilities comparable to those in the West. Elsewhere, toilets and showers are often rudimentary if they exist at all, fuel is seldom available, some of the moorings are too light for larger vessels and many are exposed to heavy surge or adverse winds, access to transportation, general shopping and communications facilities is often poor, the security of the vessel may not be assured, water and electric outlets are the exception, and boat supplies and repairs are not available (although never underestimate the ability of Russian mechanics to improvise).

The three Baltic states do not have adequate patrol craft and communications to assure an effective search and rescue service, or even protection from the pirate vessels which Finnish sources allege are preying on foreign yachts. Russian patrol craft seem more concerned with chasing down ghosts of the old Cold War. For economic reasons and due to the absence of their own naval forces, the three Baltic states have not been able to replace all the floating navigational aids which must be removed from the fairways during the winter ice season. This task used to be the responsibility of the Soviet navy, but the Russians insist that this burden must be assumed by the newly independent states, even though the Russians still maintain naval forces in the area, presumably also using these aids. In contrast, Russian waters are well marked by lighthouses and channel buoys. Once out of range of Swedish radio, weather forecasts are hard to come by.

While in St Petersburg we had a vivid example of the absence of rescue capability. During an unpredicted two-day storm, two large sailing vessels went aground, one only 50 yards from the entrance to a yacht club, and suffered a terrible battering all night. No visible effort was made to pull them off, or to rescue the endangered crew. We assume they survived but no one seemed to know - or care!

PREPARATIONS

As already above, obtaining official invitations remains the principal obstacle in organising visas for travel by yacht to Russia. In 1992 and presumably in the future, official invitations can be obtained from the following in the St Petersburg area:

Alexander MAXIMADJI or Sergei M KHRONOPULO, POSEIDON Inc

Eugene G SUCHILIN, Director Ivan A KISELEF, Director

Baltic Shipping Company Yacht Club Navy Yacht Club

Martynova Emb 92 Shkipersky Protok 21

St Petersburg, 197047 RUSSIA St Petersburg, RUSSIA

Tel: (7)(812) 230-7585 Tel: (7)(812) 351-1306

Fax: (7)(812) 186-8544 Fax: (7)(812) 217-2283

Vladimir IVANKIV or Viktor V BASHMAKOV, President INTERSAIL

Gennadi SNETKOV, Director 17-1-7 Turku St

St Petersburg Rechnoi Yacht Club St Petersburg, 192238 RUSSIA

Petrovskaya Kosa 7 Tel: (7)(812) 106-0400

Tel: (7)(812) 235-4562 Fax: (7)(812) 315-1701

Fax: (7)(812) 235-7067 (Arranges visas & reserves moorings)

Invitations from several other yacht clubs and organizations, such as the Strelnii Yacht Club of the huge Kirov industrial complex near St Petersburg, the Vyborg Yacht Club and that of Kaliningrad, are probably also acceptable. Among the three invitations we obtained for 1992 was one from the `Moscow International School of Translation and Interpreting'. A professional agency, such that run by the very energetic Marika Selmi, ESTUM Sailing Agency, Vuorimiehenkatu 23A, SF-00140 HELSINKI, Finland; Tel: (358) 0-629299; Fax: (358) 0-629390 can also arrange for visas and entry of yachts. However, she encountered some problems in 1992 dealing with the new Russian consular officer, and it is probably safer to obtain the invitation oneself and seek the visas directly from a Russian consulate.

The following information is needed for an official invitation and visas: name of vessel and identification such as home port, flag, length, type, colour, and sail number; date of probable entry and exit from Russia with many days' leeway in both directions; places to be visited, roughly in order; and name, place and date of birth, passport number and nationality of each person who will be on board. For the visas the Russian consulate requires: the invitation itself which can be a letter, fax or telex; a photocopy of the signature page of each passport; three identical small passport photographs of each traveller; a completed visa application form and the visa fee (between $15 and $25 in 1992). Although visas can be issued rapidly, it is recommended that they be requested well in advance in case of delay such as unacceptability of the inviting entity. As in the past, trying to enter without a visa is very risky. The Russians accept that anyone with a valid visa can join or leave the vessel at will, thereby permitting easy crew changes or visits to other places in Russia or the other former Soviet republics.

Since the three Baltic states have few diplomatic missions abroad to issue visas, these can also be arranged through an agent in Tallinn, such as Tiina Coik, ESAIL, c/o Sport Hotel, Pirita Marina, Tallinn, Estonia; Tel: (7)(0142) 527366 or 238145; Fax: (7)(0142) 237945. Tiina is very dynamic and, with the same information as that supplied for Russian visas, can arrange for entry at any Estonian port. As of July 1992 Poland no longer requires visas from most Western countries, and entry into former East Germany is now completely free.

Contrary from what one would expect from reading the daily press, we had the impression that food and beverages of all kinds were more plentiful in 1992 than in previous years. Possibly the removal of price controls has put the free market prices of many products beyond the reach of the local people. For them, prices have become astronomical, and they have become increasingly dependent on barter or alternative channels of supply. With a floating exchange rate, however, prices of almost everything are ridiculously low for foreigners and others with foreign exchange. In addition, many imported goods can be bought from stores selling only for foreign currency, but prices are high. Despite very limited menus and questionable quality, meals in restaurants are extremely cheap at the present exchange rate. Because of the uncertainty of supply, however, I would suggest that vessels follow our example and carry adequate reserves of food and beverages. We found that the food situation was worse in Latvia and the Russian enclave of Kaliningrad and best in Estonia, at least when we were there. Availability of fuel is erratic, but in the summer of 1992 very cheap diesel oil could be obtained at several places.

The opening up of the Baltic coast of the former USSR is too recent and too subject to change for it to be covered by reliable pilot books or even magazine articles. Word of mouth, ham radio and recent letters from those who have been there is often the only guidance available, but even that must be treated with caution since the situation is so fluid. Things are probably best in Estonia, where efforts to attract foreign yachtsmen and some assistance from Sweden and Poland have resulted in a significant inflow of yachts from the Swedish Island of Gotland and from Finland. The government has published a small brochure with information and mini-charts of most ports which can be obtained from ESAIL or ESTUM agencies or Pirita Marina. Max Ekholm of the Royal Cruising Club has also written a very useful guide entitled Sailing in Estonia, A Situation Review, May 1992, although we found that some of his information had already been overtaken by events. He can be reached at Sjojungfruns Vag 12, SF-02320, ESBO, Finland.

Because of Soviet secrecy, obtaining adequate charts of the area is a problem. Charts published in the West are satisfactory for entry into major ports along principal fairways, but are not detailed enough for safe navigation into small bays or harbours or off the beaten track. The only reliable charts, particularly for the shallow and narrow Estonian inland waterways, the Neva Inlet, the Gulf of Riga and Kaliningrad, are Soviet charts in Cyrillic script which were formerly considered confidential and are hard to obtain and then usually only as low-quality copies. Both ESTUM and ESAIL sell such copies. We also obtained several originals from local yacht clubs or yachtsmen, but this is a matter of luck.

SPECIFICS

Katy II travelled to St Petersburg from our home in southern France via Lyon and Paris. We left Sanary-sur-Mer on April 10, traversed the French canals to the North Sea, entered the Baltic through the Kiel Canal, and had a marvellous cruise through the islands of Denmark, Sweden and Finland before entering Russia at the end of June. On our return we went through Estonia and cruised the coasts of Latvia, Lithunia and Poland, and the fascinating cruising grounds of the former East Germany which were closed until last year. Then we came back via the Kiel Canal and the North Sea to the inland Dutch waterways.

Much of the trip was under motor for, in addition to long passages in canals or narrow waterways, we encountered strong and regular east to north-east winds as we travelled from France to St Petersburg, and even stronger west to south-west winds on our way back. We had considerable rain on the return passage, culminating in drenching thunderstorms and squalls in the North Sea in early September which led me to leave Katy II in Terneuzen on the Scheld Estuary for the winter, rather than in Falmouth, England, as originally planned. I was told that this is traditional weather during the summer months.

There is little to add to the considerable literature on the French Canals. Since my 63ft mast extends 19 feet beyond Katy, I had it and the shorter mizzen mast shipped to the North Sea. They were unstepped very professionally by the Burton brothers at the Navi Service Yard at Port St Louis at the entrance to the Rhone. One word of advice: wrap the masts well with used carpeting or other material and either ship the standing rigging separately or tie it alongside the masts OUTSIDE the protective covering. We tied the stays and shrouds inside the wrapping, and the masts arrived badly scratched. Also, remove or secure all turnbuckles and other hardware securely; two expensive turnbuckles were lost in the transport. We also found that the Yacht Club of the Mer du Nord in Dunkerque had neither the equipment nor the experience to step a mast as tall as Katy's easily, and recommend the Yacht Club de Calais in Calais instead.

Despite adverse winds, we greatly enjoyed the passage through the picturesque islands of Denmark, Sweden and Finland. With detailed charts navigation is easy, and the area has lovely anchorages or secure harbours. Prices in general are steep, but fees in the well-equipped marinas serving the very large Scandinavian cruising community are reasonable. People are friendly and there are marvellous places to visit along the way.

We clear out of Finland at the little island of Santio near Kotka. Under the surveillance of two Russian patrol craft we pass the Island of Vibrevoj where, we discover later, yachts heading for the Saima Lakes of Finland meet the Russian pilot boat to escort them to the canal. We arrive at the naval base before Vyborg late in the evening and are hailed for clearance by police and customs officials. They insist that we follow a large pilot boat along the well marked fairway to the dilapidated Sea Club at the foot of the historic Swedish citadel in Vyborg. We do not trust the light mooring buoys in the empty port, and finally moor alongside the ramshackle pier at two o'clock in the morning.

Except for curious Russians who welcome us as the first American yacht in Vyborg, we meet no officials until a young man arrives after we complete a walking tour of the interesting but decaying town, taken from Finland by the USSR after the Finnish-Soviet `Winter War'. In the name of the Sea Club (which was described by one observer as a private co-operative, run by a `mafia' in collusion with city councilmen) he presents us with a bill for $123 for our 12 hour stay, including $30 marina fee, $53 for agency commission and $40 for the pilot boat. We say that we would be pleased to pay a reasonable sum but that the amount requested is outrageous - Vyborg offers no facilities, not even a toilet, whereas we had just paid $12 for a full day in Kotka which has everything, including hot showers and washing machine; we had entered Russia on our own with no assistance from an `agent', and had been forced to follow a pilot which was not needed. The young man sympathizes with our position. After consulting his superiors, he returns and asks me to sign a paper saying that we assume full responsibility for leaving without a pilot which I am happy to do. The issue of payment is not raised again. (The episode reflected the frequent inability of people raised in the Soviet system to appreciate the value of money).

As we leave Vyborg, we explain to the authorities by VHF radio that we are going to St Petersburg. They allow us to proceed without formal clearance and even wish us a pleasant journey. Although there is apparently a deep and well-marked short cut channel along the coast to St Petersburg, we have to go miles out of our way to rejoin the crowded commercial shipping channel. During our overnight passage we are examined several times by impressive Russian patrol craft, but the sight of two other yachts reassure us that we are not alone.

After passing through the large commercial harbour of St Petersburg, we stop at the small police and customs control dock just before the PriBaltiskaya Hotel and the passenger ship landing on Vassilyevski Island. Since we had already cleared into Russia processing is rapid, and with a young Russian sailor on board as obligatory guide we are soon on our long roundabout way through the very shallow waters (less than one metre in large areas) to the St Petersburg Rechnoi (River) Yacht Club at the north-west end of Petrovsky Island. The Club has several Russian racing yachts and a very active sailing programme but, as noted earlier, appears ambivalent in regard to receiving foreign visitors. Except for an electric outlet it has no facilities for visitors in its massive but empty club house. The port, which has considerable room for visitors, is exposed to wind and surge. As the result of a two-day storm, the precarious floating pier to which we are moored stern-to actually breaks loose. Using available ropes and rusty chain we tie it back together again.

The only other foreign yacht leaves the day after our arrival and we follow suite a few days afterwards to go to the Naval Yacht Club near the passenger terminal. Although small, crowded and run-down, the enclosed cove is much more secure and the welcome from its dynamic Director, Ivan Kiselef, a naval officer, is much warmer. We find three Scandinavian yachts and one Belgian. The Club is also expecting a fleet of German and other European motor vessels later in the summer. Ivan has ambitious plans to transform the nearby abandoned commercial harbour, built by Peter the Great in the early 18th century, into a full-service marina with hotel and restaurants. He says that he has assured financing and the support of St Petersburg Mayor Sobchak and the navy. He expects that the marina will be ready to receive vessels in time for the Goodwill Games in 1994. While this is an ideal location for a marina, the expense seems totally unjustified given the economic dislocation in Russia. Neither is there likely to be a significant increase in yacht tourism until effective steps are taken at high level to encourage and facilitate it such an expansion.

The Sailing Club of the Baltic Shipping Company attracts the greatest number of foreign yachts and, at present, offers the best facilities and numerous services for visitors in a pleasant setting. It operates as a private company with an independent source of financing from the operation of a large commercial fleet and the passenger terminal. Situated on the northern branch of the Neva River, unfortunately it is the most isolated and is also open to wind and surge. Vessels including a large British yacht suffered light damage during a storm that struck the area in early July.

On clearing St Petersburg, in view of the continued unsettled weather we seek permission to shelter on some of the many Russian islands in the Gulf of Finland should it be necessary. Ivan Kisilef tells us approval has been granted. At nightfall we encounter strong head winds west of the naval base of Kronstadt, turn back, and put in on the unused side of the hydrofoil dock near the tiny Kronstadt Yacht Club. We are immediately welcomed by Yacht Club officials as the first American yacht on the island and then by the police who, after checking with higher authority, allow us to stay. A reassuring development!

At midnight the west wind dies. We set off and make good progress under motor until we encounter heavy seas and gale force winds on the nose as darkness approaches. We radio a passing patrol craft for permission to seek shelter for the night in Suurklyulyan Bay on the lovely island of Gogland, a largely uninhabited military observation post which was taken from Finland at the end of the Winter War. After a short wait, permission is granted. The well-protected port is empty except for three small Russian sail boats. The lone frontier policeman on the island (VHF call sign `427') alerted to our arrival charges up on his motorbike. He says that we are the first American vessel, but that Swedish boats spent a night there a few days earlier. After looking us over he goes home, but returns as we finish dinner to tell us that his superiors have radioed that we have to leave after all. To the consternation of Viktor, our Russian friend sailing with us from St Petersburg, we refuse on the grounds of fatigue and danger. The authorities do not answer, but a large submarine is posted at the entrance to the bay. (In Gagra two years earlier, we had only rated a large dog and four soldiers!)

In the morning, a strong north-east wind gives us a marvellous and rare fast run toward Estonia. We bypass Narva, the first port of entry, in the hope of riding the wind all the way to Tallinn, but in the afternoon the wind backs to its usual position - on the nose! We backtrack, and with some difficulty enter the tiny and very shallow port of Vergi which appears to be reserved for the Estonian hydrographic service. A very officious border policeman arrives at one o'clock in the morning and becomes hostile when he finds that Viktor does not have an Estonian visa. We assure him that neither Viktor nor us will engage in any hanky-panky before we clear Viktor's entry in Tallinn. (This incident demonstrates the suspicion and dislike of the Russians we encounter in all the Baltic states.)

On our overnight sail to Pirita Marina near Tallinn we find that, while many navigation buoys are missing, the critical ones in narrow rocky passages are in place. With the help of Tiina Coik, Viktor's entry is arranged. We find OCC Commodore Mary Barton and Rear Commodore Tony Vasey on Shiant, fresh from the OCC Baltic Rally in Helsinki which we were unable to attend because of our tighter schedule. They made a detour to Estonia while waiting for the Russian consulate to make up its mind regarding their visas. The well-equipped port is loaded with foreign vessels, demonstrating the yacht tourism potential of the eastern Baltic shore if conditions are right.

From the picturesque Hanseatic town of Tallinn we proceed to Dirhami, Haapsalu, Virtsu, Parnu, Kihnu, Roomassaar, and Nasva in Estonia. Although Max Ekholm warns that the channel east of Worms (Vormsi) island may be only 1.5m, we have no difficulty following a narrow and meandering channel everywhere over 2m deep. The most difficult navigation is in Haapsalu, where we go `lightly' aground at our 1.7m mooring, and off Parnu, where we have to slalom through badly marked fishing nets.

We are warmly welcomed everywhere, and are told that Katy is the first American vessel in several ports. We are impressed by the number of Scandinavian and German yachts in the area. Restaurant and hotel facilities are inadequate to serve the flow of tourists arriving by land, thus giving greater importance to yacht tourism. Port and marina fees are reasonable, and despite limited choice, markets and stores have adequate food and beverages at low prices. Although relatively flat, the land is attractive with lovely forests and many picturesque and historic relics of Estonia's occupation by Sweden, Denmark, the Teutonic Knights and Russia. Haapsalu and Kiressaar near Roomassaar in particular have well-preserved medieval fortresses and churches. Several towns have fascinating mansions and hotels from the period when wealthy Russians spent their vacations on the lovely Estonian beaches which are now sadly polluted.

After a morning fog is blown away by a south-west wind (on the nose, of course!), we leave Estonia from Nasva for the industrial and largely uninteresting town of Ventspils in Latvia. We are forced to clear customs and police at a rough pier at the entrance which is dangerously exposed to surge and wind, before being allowed to proceed to the very secure fishing harbour, crowded with large fishing vessels immobilized by a critical fuel shortage. Of all the countries we visited in 1992 Latvia appeared the poorest, its population grim and complaining bitterly about economic conditions and continued Russian pressure through its military bases and trade ties. Fortunately an off-duty customs officer drives us to scattered outlets where we find bread and some fruit and vegetables, but no meat, cheese or paper products. He also drives us to his very active small boat yacht club on Oussna Lake and brings us 100 litres of diesel fuel in jerry cans.

We depart for Liepaja after another morning fog. This formerly secret Soviet naval base turns out to be a huge, well-protected port still filled with an impressive array of largely inactive Russian military vessels. We cannot help but feel sorry for a young sailor who asks us to explain what is going on in Russia, from which he has been cut off for three years. The hostile local population is gloating because, with the introduction of its own currency in July 1992, Russians have to buy Latvian rubles with foreign currency for use in Latvia, rather than use Russian rubles of questionable value. Given Russia's foreign exchange shortage, this is intended to increase pressure to get the Russian military out of the country.

Our next stop, Klaipeda, the principal port of Lithuania, appears dynamic and to reflect a more successful economy with no major shortages. The well-equipped and active Klaipeda Yacht Club on the opposite side of the entrance to the large Kurskiy lagoon offers a warm welcome and adequate facilities. As usual, we are said to be the first American vessel, but there are many European yachts and we are soon joined by a second American boat. A perfunctory clearance merely confirms that we have valid Estonian visas which permit us to transit the other Baltic states. The town, which we reach by ferry, is attractive and has several restaurants and at least two adequate hotels. The principal attraction of Klaipeda, however, is an exceptional nature preserve near Nida, of lush forests and massive white sand dunes stretching for miles along the peninsula south of the yacht club. The amber found in the sand, particularly on the beaches, has been a major export of this coast for thousand of years.

After a pleasant overnight passage, partially under sail, we find that Baltiysk, the former secret Soviet naval base at the entrance to the 21 mile channel to the Russian enclave of Kaliningrad, is closed in order to celebrate Soviet Navy Day, 26th July. This is the first such celebration since the still mighty fleet became nominally that of the Commonwealth of Independent States but - in fact - that of Russia. Drifting outside the harbour for several hours, we witness the impressive ceremonies with the Commander in Chief of the Baltic Fleet in attendance. These culminate in several parachute drops and two flag bearers being towed by a plane on a long tether. When we are finally allowed in a resourceful and very friendly immigration officer takes the unprecedented step of concocting an entrance visa for my Swiss crew on the basis of `cultural exchange'. He had served as security officer in the Soviet mission in Geneva and had fond memories of Switzerland.

We proceed to Kaliningrad, which we find is crowded, dirty, polluted and in a terminal state of decay. The centre of the city was totally destroyed during World War II, but we ride the antiquated German tramway system to attractive suburbs which reflect the prosperity of the area when it was Koninsburg, the capital of German East Prussia. The town has little to offer and we hasten back to Baltiysk, only to be hammered for two days by F9 westerlies which cause some superficial damage to Katy, tied alongside rough piers.

In an area which has had absolutely no contact with the outside world for over fifty years we are harassed by gangs of children asking for candy, chewing gum and dollars but ready to pick up anything loose, and are boarded by an unruly drunk who only leaves when I convince him that we have no cigarettes to give him. We also have fascinating conversations with some very friendly Russians, including two high-ranking military officers who are very pessimistic regarding the future, both because of the break-up of the Soviet Union and the difficulty of effecting lasting reforms if the real achievements of the Soviet system are rejected en bloc with its excesses and brutality. They regret the long isolation from the West as a result of the Cold War, which they attribute to Stalin's paranoia. They are very critical of Gorbachev, Yeltsin and other Russian politicians, but insist that the military will not try to take over since it also has no solutions to the massive problems facing the ex-Soviet Union.

The relatively more relaxed and prosperous atmosphere of Poland is a welcome change. Although prices are higher the markets and stores are well supplied, communications with Europe and America are possible, albeit with some effort, and ports and marinas are secure and reliable and filled with fellow sailors. We are very impressed by Gdansk - despite heavy war damage it is a beautiful medieval city and appears genuine, in contrast to the movie set appearance of so many towns in western Europe.

Because of unfavourable westerly winds we proceed in short hops along the Polish coast, stopping at Gdynia, Wladyslawowo, Leba, Ustka, Kolobrez, Swinoujscie and finally Trzebiez. Except for the Morskoi Yacht Club in the heart of Gdansk and the Kolobrez Yacht Club whose active director, Ryszard Malik, is developing a realistic marina to attract foreign yachts to the pleasant town, we do not feel particularly welcome except as a source of money. The advantage of not needing a visa is more than offset by the bureaucratic hassle of having to clear both in and out of every place we visit, even those only a few miles apart, on the grounds that leaving a port is equivalent to leaving territorial waters. Our passports are now filled with Polish entry/exit stamps. We have to wait two hours at a pier rocked by the wake of passing vessels for clearance to enter Gdansk. When they finally come, the officials say that we are lucky not to have to wait longer. We do not feel very generous when they ask for beer!

From Trzebiez we enter the fascinating protected waterways of eastern Germany, leading to the lovely Rugen Islands. This area, whose museums proudly recall the development of the V-1 and V-2 rockets under Hitler, was totally closed until 1991.

CONCLUSION

For those intent on cruising to new areas, why brave polar icebergs and frigid waters, the sweltering heat and mosquitoes of the Amazon, or the storm-swept rocks of Cape Horn, when the vast and pleasant cruising grounds of the USSR and Eastern Europe are finally opening up? If the object is to get away from people and civilization, then don't go, for one of the main attractions of the area is the human contact. It is exhilarating to respond to the craving of its peoples for greater contact with the Western world. In the eastern reaches of the Baltic, as in the case of the Black Sea, we discovered a region rich in history and culture, possessing fascinating monuments and natural beauty, and offering marvellous sailing in a region which has been closed to the outside world for decades.

We urge the foreign boating community to take advantage of the new openness, although one does not have to go as far as Barry Sheffield in Moorhen who in 1992 led the first totally private expedition from the Baltic Sea to the Black Sea, following the ancient Viking invasion routes along the Volga and Don rivers. Despite primitive conditions and facilities, and occasional hassles from the authorities, the human contact with the peoples of the area is an unforgettable experience and it is gratifying to feel that one has made a modest contribution to international understanding and peace.

Over the long term, we believe that yacht tourism on Russian coastal and inland waterways has great potential. For its realization, however, the Russian authorities should permit easy access in stages by opening the many secure islands in the Gulf of Finland and the protected channel from Vyborg to St Petersburg. They should also facilitate passage through St Petersburg to Lakes Ladoga and Onega. More attention should be paid to providing relatively inexpensive facilities for yachts, such as secure moorings and clean toilets and showers, rather than concentrating only on prestige events like Tall Ship rallies of doubtful economic value, or on construction of fancy marinas which are not needed until an expansion in yacht tourism actually takes place.

(6113 words)