VIETNAMESE NOTES

Robert Verschoyle

(Robert wrote the first part of his notes last October, following them up with a further letter in December. While they may be of limited practical application for the majority of members, they do provide an insight into an area which is little more than a name to most of us.)

Last time I wrote I mentioned that Vietnam might still be dangerous to approach as the procedures were very uncertain and that yachts had been seized. I am happy to report that this has now changed BUT HAS NOT AS YET BEEN TESTED. The Government has decided to embrace international maritime law and I have had some meetings with the Vietnam National Maritime Department who have been rather helpful and have given me the correct procedure for entry. As yet this is only applies to Saigon as the others are still unsure of procedure.

Any persons coming to this country must have a valid visa and this may be collected in a Vietnam Embassy. As well as London there are embassies in Singapore, Bangkok and Hong Kong which may be more useful to approaching yachtsmen. Visas require there to be a `sponsor' in Vietnam and the Maritime Department have agreed to act as sponsor in this case. The procedure is:

Telex (811499 FALCON VT) or fax (Int-84-8-224215) this department with the following information on the boat and crew: Passport name, crew ranks (owner, captain, mate, cook etc and not `bilge rat' or `bottle washer'), nationality, passport number, date of birth, place of birth, passport issue and expiry dates, purpose of visit (`tourist'), probable duration of stay, very approximate ETA, approach port (Vung Tau), boat name, country of registry, LOA, colour.

Also suggest the Embassy (Hong Kong, Bangkok, Singapore, London or whatever) from which you wish to collect the visa, plus any other appropriate details of your intentions which you think may be of use to them.

After this (about a week) the Department will / should reply with confirmation and visa collection details (but assume three weeks).

2. Telex or fax the Department again when ready to sail with a more exact ETC, repeat of boat details, crew details, and a general `look forward to seeing you, please inform Vung Tau pilot station and immigration' attitude. Ask for confirmation by telex or fax reply -- I would NOT recommend coming until this reply is received.

I suggest that all communications at this time be marked `Attention of Vice Director, Mr Ha Duc Bang, Vietnam National Maritime Department, 6th Floor - 27 - 28 Ton Duc Thang Street, District 1, Ho Chi Min City, Vietnam'.

The yacht should enter Vung Tau (the old Cap St Jac) and moor somewhere between the ships at anchor and the town. Have the Q flag up as you enter. Hang all fenders -- the Vietnamese, and particularly the Customs, are not too hot on coming alongside and care not a jot about your pristine topsides. Also it's rolypoly out there. The anchorage is frankly lousy -- deepish and very exposed to the west, south and north -- but most typhoons or really nasty blows come from the east so it's the best available.

It's probably a good idea to request the officers to `sell' a courtesy flag, river charts, rent of taxi etc. As soon as they are sure that the boat is innocent they will turn their minds to business matters -- and always believe that foreigners are millionaires at the least. Haggle, but assume that the slightly exorbitant charges really comprise the lads' `bung' as well as the true cost of the items. DO NOT attempt direct bribery as it will cause friction. Taxis cost about US $25-30 per day (decent new ones).

The Vietnamese authorities, unlike the average people, have a strange mixture of German and Asian attitudes. Smiling is compulsory. However it's VERY acceptable to offer packets of cigarettes (all chain smoke) and beer. But be careful to avoid slipping into party mode or you will find yourself the centre boat of a large flotilla of official and other craft. I know. Vung Tau itself is worth a day or so if the weather looks fair. There are NO facilities for yachts, so come well found. There are some quite acceptable restaurants and hotels, and fresh fruit and vegetables are abundant and fairly cheap. Again, haggle.

It is now quite possible to get painting and brightwork done here, but NOT at a Vietnamese yard. Contact the French company Saigon Shipyard at Mac Thi Bui Street, Saigon (150 metres from the Floating Hotel). They can slip shallower draught (2m) boats and can arrange for most mechanical or electrical repairs. Other good buys are upholstery (if you have a sample) and carving.

Do not leave the boat unattended but hire a local boatman or similar to guard the WELL LOCKED boat if necessary. Get him to repel boarders, scrub, polish etc (pride of position). Offer about US $3-4 per day maximum and pay afterwards. Leaving the boat unattended is the biggest problem at the moment. It is probably best to hire a permanent boatman-cum-nightguard while here and, even then, not the first person you meet. Ask local long term ex-pats for advice.

Piracy IS a problem in these waters but, unless crewed by fully trained mercenaries, precautions should probably be confined to well hidden money and valuables with just enough `out' to satisfy any unwelcome guests. However, I would think that most yachts would be left alone -- the majority of pirates here are really the bigger fishing boats moonlighting.

December update

There are now two sailing boats here, ourselves and a 25m (76ft) junk owned by a Frenchman. He has been wandering about and his travels have revealed something more of how things work.

One is only permitted to sail from port to port. In practice this means that one is not allowed to coast hop or anchor in the smaller anchorages which all seem to be `military zones', and the ports are not the most pleasant being oily, dusty and hiving with little skiffs all determined to board and relieve one of as much rope and as many cigarettes as possible.

The local bosses are not like the Thais, Malays, or other Asians for that matter and, further, the system over the last nineteen years has not promoted a welcoming attitude to foreigners who, sadly, are still held as the cause of all poverty, and so fair game. The poorer people are far more sincere but, again, many have been taught to believe that it's cool to cheat Mr Foreigner -- sad to report but true. I say it only as a warning to any members coming in this direction to be extremely cautious, to double check everything, and to be prepared to play this game.

I must repeat that the National Maritime Department mentioned above AND NO OTHER has the authority to issue licences to boats, despite the fact that almost any state company will make offers of `help' if requested. Also beware Embassy staff who will often direct visitors to a `company I know who can help you'.

I hope to be weighing anchor about the middle or end of March so, unfortunately, will not be able to help if anybody gets into the soup. I'm yearning for some Pacific islands - am I the first Irish refugee from Vietnam by boat?

PS: I hope no one is offended by our adoption of the Flying Fish as part of our `chop'. A chop is a must here -- `No choppy, no go-ee'.