FIJI TO PHUKET

Peter Radford

(Peter continues his Circumnavigation Notes begun in the last issue. He hopes to be back in England by June or July this year.)

Fiji

The land of the large, friendly people who love their rugby football (they beat New Zealand in the Hong Kong Sevens), eat curries, have a perfect climate and good beer -- what more could one want? Suva is an amazingly well developed town but don't arrive on a weekend or you won't be cleared until Monday. Call Harbour Control as you arrive for instructions. We visited the Yasawa island group, paid our dues to the Chief with donations of kava root and had a relaxing time. Something outstanding to report is the new marina and haul-out yard at Lautoka. Niafu Marina* is the cheapest and best in the Pacific -- it cost £50 for the travel lift `in and out' and the yard will fix up repairs quickly and efficiently. They actually seem to want to work!

Vanuatu

A perfect landfall, Port Villa has everything. Climate (in their winter), beaches, diving and a friendly yacht club. This turned out to be one of the best of the pearls studding the ocean, Cooks, Niue, Tonga, Fiji and Vanuatu. Not yet spoiled by tourism, relaxed, smiling and happy people, they greet you in the streets. These must be their best years now, emerging with modern amenities but still lacking western-type pressures. Anchor off the quarantine buoy and call Vanuatu Radio.

The Coral Sea now had us in its unfriendly grip. Overcast skies, strong winds and a lot of cross swells brought water aboard and stripped the woodwork.

Papua New Guinea

We arrived at Port Moresby, its huge mountainous country brooding behind mists and clouds, rich in minerals but not really welcoming tourists, an unpleasant climate with cerebral-malaria carrying mosquitoes rife, but tempered by the friendly ex-pat Australians who seem to have a large interest in the country. You will find space in the small Royal PNG Yacht Club marina, go ashore for clearance afterwards -- at least no visa was required! We left quickly and survived the Torres Strait more easily than expected but right across the north of Australia the wind fell and we motored for seven days to get to and finally away from Darwin.

Darwin

Buzzed by coastwatch aircraft and swamped by officialdom we ended up in the stifling head of the `duckpond', the cyclone-proof fishing harbour where we were able to get repairs made to the Autohelm, GPS and gear shift lever. Many Australians seem to be recent arrivals from Europe, including two English mechanics, an Eastern European taxi driver, Greek hairdresser and Scots bar girl. Excellent meals can be had cheaply at the Dinah Beach Cruising Club and the Kakadu National Park gives a glimpse of what must be the extremely unfriendly interior.

Visas definitely are required here, the only place so far. You have to anchor at the quarantine buoy -- call ahead to Darwin Radio. A new marina is being built not far from the Darwin Sailing Club which will mean being able to avoid the long row to and from the beach. You can't swim for fear of `salties' (crocodiles) and box jellyfish but it is civilisation with five supermarkets and shops. This set us up for Bali.

Bali

Indonesia, the land of 180 million people, fast developing with five-year plans, vast natural resources and a lush climate, recessions don't seem to have affected their tourism. It's an inexpensive place to visit except that bear costs more than a meal. One thing you don't need is a cruising permit if you are only passing through. Bali Yacht Services will organise clearance if you wish and are very helpful -- call them on Channel 11. We took a trip into the mountains past tiered paddy fields, temples, masses of stone carvings and relaxed, friendly people.

Singapore

The Lombok Strait didn't live up to its reputation -- we found no strong currents and were through in a day. It was now 1st October, plenty of fishing boats and tanker traffic but very little wind. Singapore is a metropolis where anything can be obtained. No longer cheap, it is clean and efficient and seems to be aiming to be the new Hong Kong. The government marina at Tuas' south-west corner is not yet ready but Changi Yacht Club, and in particular Mr Tan the security manager, will help you even with a mooring if you are lucky, instead of having to anchor a mile from the jetty.

We left quickly for the Malacca Straits, claimed to be the busiest shipping area in the world -- stay in the northbound lane -- the fishing boats are all well lit, in fear of their lives. NB: There were no pirates nor strong currents and no Sumatras. Unfortunately there was also no wind.

Penang

We arrived in Penang to find the unpublicised marina with travel lift still not ready. Near Fort Cornwallis, it juts into the strong current and filthy water. Penang has a good supermarket and interesting places to visit particularly as Malays, Chinese and Indians live and trade peacefully together. Go ashore for Immigration and Port Authority. Customs do not seem to be interested in yachts from Singapore or Malaysia but you are expected to check in and out of every port in Malaysia.

Langkawi

We came via the beautiful Marine Park island of Palua Paya where we fed tropical fish and small sharks in the sea. This was the changeover season between the south-west and north-east monsoons and besides no wind it was overcast and quite cool. Water is available form a tap and diesel from the main jetty but it is not easy to go alongside. This island group is still wooded and unspoilt, and there are several quiet anchorages. There are also several expensive hotels on the west coast beach and cheap restaurants in Kuah town. Duty free beer can be obtained at 25p a can, other supplies are limited. Sea Speed Boat & Yacht Supplies, near the Orchid Restaurant, has a small chandlery and fax facilities and are very helpful. Kuah is a safe and secure anchorage in mud.

Thailand

A further windless trip to Phuket. Anchor in Ao Chalong bay which is safe and secure in mud, and report to Immigration and Customs in Phuket town. No facilities for yachts except for a fuel and water barge in the bay where Quantum Marine Services are helpful with sail repairs and fax. The hot, spicy food at the Can Eang Restaurant was outstanding and good value.

We visited the amazing steep-to islands in the northern bay between Phuket and the mainland and also Laem Phrao where there are moorings and scrubbing piles (£20 for twenty-four hours) where we found many barnacles attached to the hull despite hauling out in Fiji only five months previously. Phuket Yacht Services have a workshop and restaurant in Laem Phrao, as well as free transport to Phuket if you are a customer.

We also visited the Phi Phi island group and Racha Noi, two spots with clear water, but these beautiful islands might be in danger of over development. Phi Phi in particular has an excellent and protected anchorage, if a bit noisy. In 1992 the north-east winds began to set in around the end of November.

* I'm uncertain whether this is one and the same as Naisau Marina, also in Lautoka and mentioned by the Pococks in FF 1992/2, which is now reported to have failed. See letters in this issue. Ed