PHUKET TO FALMOUTH

Peter Radford

(The final installment of Peter's Circumnavigation Notes which began in Flying Fish 1992/2.)

Thailand continued

We paid further visits to the remarkably shaped, sheltered islands north of Phuket and the beautiful Ko Racha Noi which has an anchorage exposed to the west before sailing south again to the Langkawi islands in Malaysia for Christmas. Incidentally a cyclone crossed the Gulf of Thailand heading exactly for the anchorage at Ao Chalong Bay in Phuket, but as predicted it altered course on hitting the land, killing four people in the process. At the time there was much apprehension in the anchorage, which is reputed to be safe in all seasons (this was early November).

Langkawi

We anchored off Kuah for a little while to enjoy the safe anchorage and inexpensive foods ashore - Chinese, Indian and Malaysian. Here we met Rona House who was surviving well although singlehanded and, briefly, Rozanne and Peter Barton. We then went round to anchor between an offshore island and Langkawi Holiday Villa Hotel on the west coast, a perfect anchorage with food on the beach and a swimming pool at the hotel. Our family came out to join us here and make Christmas special.

Sri Lanka

We had a steady trip to Galle, where Vinnie and Santosh of Windsor Yacht Services efficiently carry on from their father, who died recently. They can deal with everything including sail repairs, flags and tourist trips as well as Customs and Immigration. We had an excursion to the hill country with tea estates and beautiful valleys, and cool nights at 6000 feet.

We enjoyed the last of many curries at the Closenburg Hotel on the harbour at Galle, an old sea captain's residence. We were sorry to leave this wonderful area of friendly, smiling peoples -- Indonesian, Malaysian, Thai and Sri Lankan -- hot climates and hot, inexpensive food. Not as efficient in some ways as many people would like, but everyone appeared cheerful and optimistic and the countries' economies are improving. Incidentally, one of the entry buoys for Gall' harbour has no top, just a square raft at sea level!

Aden

The old coaling station is still busy with bunkering and Iraq's laid-up tankers. Call up the Port Office on the hill on arrival and also clear out through them. Customs and Immigration give some hassle on the dock when they try to get you to change money through them. It's better to change a little money at the bank at the official rate and get a stamp on the customs form -- outside on the black market it's twice the rate. The Sailor's Club has cold beers and is the evening meeting place. Some supplies are available in the town but it is all very run down -- Hussein the Mercedes taxi driver was very helpful. There's an awful lot of oil in the harbour which can spoil your waterline and dinghy and it's best not to stay too long.

The Red Sea

There should have been southerlies perhaps as far as Port Sudan, but we had to motor for six days and couldn't avoid stopping for diesel at Port Sudan, where Captain Hamid acts as agent for US $100. The people are very friendly and in February it was cool. The agent is very slow -- it takes two days to clear in and there was no fuel for five days. Alcohol is not available, but there are some supplies and fresh fruit and vegetables in the dusty town. Only US dollars are acceptable.

Many boats take two to three months for the transit of the Red Sea, day hopping to avoid the strong winds which blow constantly from the north-east. We tried to sail outside the reef and had some success early on, but were often forced back to take shelter in the safe anchorages on either side. We had to stay in one small harbour for ten days waiting for the 35 knot winds to abate. In this area the barometer shows the reverse of normal -- low pressure indicates a drop in the wind and vice versa. Some people report favourable winds all the way north, but we took six weeks for the 1200 miles and in the northern part, approaching Suez, had to motor-sail constantly to make progress as there was no let up in the strong winds. There are plenty of anchorages not mentioned in the pilot book and we stopped at the following: Ras Banas, Toronbi, Safarga, Hurgadha, Gilfati, Sha'b Ali Reef, Endeavour Fish Hook, Bluff Point, Tor Harbour, Ras Shukheir, Sheratib Shoals, Zemina, Ras Matab, Matama and Sudhr.

Suez and the Canal

`The Prince of the Red Sea', now the only agent, will meet you in front of the yacht club at Suez if you call him up on Channel 16 two hours before arrival. He will deal with the Port Office, Customs and Immigration for US $140. We left after two days having obtained water, diesel, gas and shopping and having had laundry done.

The pilots in the Canal are very efficient, but be sure to have two or three cartons of cigarettes for the boat crews who get angry if not given them. It is sufficient to give the pilots US $10 each. From Port Said we cleared straight through to Cyprus without having to stop in Suez.

Cyprus and home

Cyprus is marvellous with clean marinas and all kinds of English foods available -- Marmite, beer, bacon, marmalade and Worcester Sauce. We were even met by the Immigration Officer, whose office is on the dock, with cups of coffee! The lovely weather was only marred by strong headwinds all across the Mediterranean.

We successfully traversed the French canals, and arrived home in Falmouth on 20 June. Two years is definitely not long enough for a circumnavigation -- we'll take longer next time.