BATHIA'S QUALIFYING CRUISE

Dick and Rosemary Millerchip

With Bathia ashore, warm and dry for the winter, our thoughts turned to 1994. What should we do? Where should we go?

Having in 1993 enjoyed the warmer settled weather of South Gascogne we again decided to head south, but this time offshore. Our reasons were:

a) to experience the pleasures and pains of ocean cruising, thus determining whether we should contemplate more distant landfalls;

b) to complete a 1000 mile qualifying passage for the OCC;

c) to satisfy the practical requirements of the Yachtmaster Ocean certificate.

Our original plan was to sail to Madeira, but then we realised that difficulties were likely to be encountered on the return passage due to the north-easterly Portuguese Trades. Our second and final choice was the Azores, a distance of 1230 miles from Falmouth, although our intention was to depart from Camaret, France, at 1123 miles.

The Atlantic Routeing Chart and relevant pilots all indicated that June to August are the best months for such crossings. Gales are least likely and there's a sporting chance of a reach both ways although the likelihood of the Azores High means that calms are most common in July. We also had discussions with seafarers who had already completed the trip.

Our boat, a Najad 360 sloop of 36ft overall, was already equipped with GPS, radar and auto-pilot, but with only two aboard (no objection from our insurance company) we felt that additional equipment and modifications were necessary to make the cruise safer and less demanding. With limited financial resources a priority list was compiled, at the same time we determined what we could install ourselves. Our final list consisted of: Hydrovane self-steering gear, Ampair/Aquair power generation, SSB radio, weatherfax, automatic bilge pump, EPIRB, salt water galley pump and uprated ground tackle. Additionally washboard retaining lanyards, lee cloths, extra Calor Gas plus Camping Gaz adaptor, rainwater catchment system and more fresh water jerrycans were deemed necessary. All but the insulated backstay for the SSB we were able to do ourselves, thus reducing costs significantly.

Again a list of essential and `more likely' spares was compiled, including 20 litres of oil and sufficient filters to cover several oil changes -- just in case we encountered those calms that we had read about.

Bathia was provisioned prior to departure Gosport and last minute purchases made at Chateaulin, a delightful Brittany town on the River Aulne twenty-five miles upriver from the Rade de Brest, where we spent five days awaiting an improvement in the weather. Finally a good five day forecast and we were off downriver to Camaret where we topped up with fuel and water. We departed Camaret at 0850 on 27 June, and after a very close encounter with a surfacing submarine off Brest cleared Chaus'e de Sein buoy, the last navigation mark before the Azores, at 1530 -- wind south-east force 3, sea slight, swell 20ft.

By 0900 the following day we had cleared the Ushant shipping lanes, allowing us to settle into a more relaxed watch-keeping routine -- wind south-south-west force 3-4, day's run 110 miles. As the day progressed the wind veered to west-south-west 5, squally and gusting 30 knots, With two reefs in the main and one in the genoa we were still making 6« knots. 29 June dawned clear and by 0600 we had dolphins for company but no wind. The next two days were mostly spent motoring.

July 1 and the forecast was south-west 2-4 and fair weather. In reality the wind was nearer force 5, sky overcast, some rain, big swell and moderate seas, falling barometer. Conditions deteriorated further over the next thirty-six hours with squally conditions, southerly force 7, rough seas and heavy swells. We had been heading south, seeking the Portuguese Trades without success, so changed to port tack to close the rhumb line. Reefed, we were still making 5 knots.

Dawn on 3 June and the sea had moderated, the barometer was rising and the wind north-north-west 4-5. At last we were on course and broad-reaching, making up to 8 knots. Day's run, 125 miles.

All well and making reasonable progress until 4 June when we were becalmed. Despite our anxiety over burning diesel we felt at that time that it was necessary. Until that point we had seen no vessels since clearing Ushant, then two in twenty-four hours -- one even made a detour to take a closer look at us. Our position at that time, 4245'N 15°30W, 220 miles west of Cape Finisterre.

Between 5 and 7 July winds varied from south-south-west force 2-3 to west-by-north 5, barometer steady at 1022 mbs, weather sunny and warm with slight sea. Numerous whales were also sighted, one particular group of six within yards of Bathia -- quite nerve-racking. We even saw a barnacle-covered turtle.

On the 8th the weatherfax forecast an approaching low. The wind backed to south-west, and by 10 July we were seeing force 8-9 winds with rain and rough seas. By this time we were approaching the Azores, albeit Sao Miguel, rather than Horta as originally planned. Shipping had increased and aircraft vapour trails were again visible in the sky.

Next day sea conditions were still far from ideal (two reefs) and though we were fast approaching Sao Miguel did not see it until ten miles off because of cloud cover. Once round Ponta do Arnel, the most easterly headland, the wind dropped, sea flattened and we motored the last twenty-five miles, arriving at Ponta Delgada at 0630 on 12 July, fifteen days and 1669 miles out from Camaret.

Having said that was to be the practical cruise for the Yachtmaster Ocean certificate, we did in fact manage at least two sights on most days. However there was one three day period of total cloud cover which necessitated dead reckoning.

The Azores archipelago (Falmouth 1230, Lisbon 920 miles) comprises nine volcanic islands. They conjured up a picture of barren grey and black peaks, but how wrong can one be! Instead we found ourselves gazing at wide expanses of pink and blue hydrangeas, lilies, azaleas and dog roses lining the country lanes and clustering on the hillsides; quaint towns and villages nestling in inland valleys and coastal inlets, and even the extinct volcanic craters sporting conifer forests and magnificent blue and green lakes. All in all, beautiful islands unspoilt by time.

During our six week stay we visited three of the islands, Sao Miguel, Faial and Pico, taking advantage of organised tours to see the places of interest. We also participated in local regattas, finishing third and receiving a rather nice cup in the Channel Race during Horta's Semana do Mar (Sea Week). Visitor participation is actively encouraged, and skipper/crew briefings with food and wine were held several days prior to each event.

We delayed our return so as to enjoy the Semana do Mar, one of the Azores' largest festivals. This attracts hundreds of people from the other islands and even from mainland Portugal, with sailing and whaleboat races, music, parades, regional food and exhibitions. Most of the events took place in the park overlooking the marina, entertaining us into the early hours. All visiting yachts received a personal invitation from the Mayor to join in the festivities and to dress overall for the occasion, and we all received gifts of flowers and wine.

Having moored alongside Roger Neal and his steel yacht Irena, we were pleased to hear from him that the finish of the OCC Azores Pursuit Race was timed to coincide with the opening of Sea Week, and that Avril and Graham Johnson were participating. On arrival in Ponta Delgada we had sent Jeremy Knox a postcard asking to be considered for membership, so we were delighted when Graham and Avril, on hearing of our interest, produced application forms which we duly completed. We were then invited to join in their celebrations and social programme, which gave us much pleasure and a valuable insight into the OCC generally.

The Azoreans produce a monthly English newsletter, the Azores News, which says `Horta Marina welcomes you to the Yachting Capital of the Azores (and invites you to stay longer than you'd planned)'! This certainly applied to us. Every yacht's arrival is also listed in the Horta daily O Tel'grafo.

It is advisable to leave the Azores for Northern Europe by the end of August to avoid the increased risk of bad weather, so on 19 August we paid our dues, booked ourselves out with Customs, and bade farewell to these most beautiful of islands.

Our return trip was much more relaxed. We departed Horta with a good forecast and a very light headwind. Anticipating ample wind further north we decided to motor to clear the archipelago, but having to pass the islands of Sao Jorge and Graciosa en route we closed them so as to enjoy the scenery and inspect the anchorages. Sao Jorge appeared a sparsely populated, stark ribbon-like island surrounded by steep cliffs with numerous volcanic peaks forming its backbone. It has few safe anchorages. In contrast Graciosa is considerably smaller, appeared much more hospitable and accessible and, according to the pilot, has the safest anchorage in the Azores.*

Within twenty-four hours of departure we had picked up favourable winds but noticed that the barometer was beginning to drop -- we appeared to be catching up with a recent front. The pressure dropped to 1008 mbs, the wind increased to southerly 5-6 and our speed to 7 knots or more with two reefs. That was the fastest day's run of the whole trip, 150 miles over the ground. Although by now it was raining with a moderate sea and swell the wind direction enabled us to remain fairly comfortable and made good time. When the low eventually moved away the barometer rose and settled for a few days at 1022 mbs, the wind between north-west and east-by-north and our speed a steady 5-6« knots.

By 26 August the wind was again south-west 5-6 on the port quarter and rather uncomfortable, but with Ushant now only 266 miles distant we were beginning to encounter traffic again, necessitating organised night watches. Up to then, apart from several ships off Cape Finisterre when we also kept a night watch, we had seen just one vessel in six days and our routine was to periodically scan the horizon during the hours of darkness, using radar when visibility was other than good.

Between 28 and 30 August the wind blew between north-north-east and north-west and we motor-sailed as necessary. Having made good time we decided against Camaret as our landfall and continued towards St Peter Port in the Channel Islands, an extra 129 miles. Our return coincided with Guernsey's International Powerboat Week, and as it was the crew's sixtieth birthday we decided to remain in St Peter Port until 6 September. Next day the forecast was favourable, so with an early start and fair tide we were off up the Little Russel towards Cherbourg, where we remained weatherbound until the 11th when a window enabled us to return to Portsmouth Harbour.

This offshore cruise was a first for both of us. The skipper's feelings were of great satisfaction and pleasure, the crew's rather more mixed. There were times on the outward leg when she felt extremely anxious in the heavy weather and totally frustrated in the calms, despite hobbies and reading material taken to keep hands and minds occupied. But once there she felt a felt a great sense of achievement and delight. With the experience of the outward leg behind us the return passage was far more relaxed and with a mostly favourable wind our progress across the chart was most satisfying. This compares with as little as twenty-five miles in twenty-four hours outbound.

All being well we look forward to participating in the next OCC Azores Pursuit Race.

* I don't know what pilot this was, but it can't have been The Atlantic Islands! The anchorage at Vila da Praia is attractive but not particularly sheltered, the harbour at Santa Cruz downright dangerous. Anne

(2055 words)