THE FIVE ARCHIPELAGOES

Gerry Gregory

Having completed a satisfactory cruise to Gibraltar in 1994 in my Nicholson 38 Nicolisa, I decided on a more ambitious voyage for '95. As my brother was available for seven weeks to crew we decided to aim for `the five archipelagoes'.

We departed Dublin on 30 May and made Arklow before the tide turned. There we took the opportunity to get everything stowed properly and have a last bag of fish and chips and a good nights sleep. Leaving Arklow the following morning in bright sunshine but very little wind we positioned ourselves to get flushed out of the Irish Sea, but experienced very light fluky winds all the way to the Isles of Scilly where we spent one night, mostly in the Mermaid pub on St Mary's.

We left on 3 June in a north-westerly force 4 and calm seas, but not for long. A few hours later the wind increased to force 6 with short lumpy seas and decreasing visibility, conditions which lasted for over twenty-four hours. On the following day the weather remained cold but bright with light winds, but with vicious cross seas which proved too much for the Autohelm -- not unexpected as Nicolisa is near the upper size limit for the Model 4000. The bad conditions returned with a vengeance on the night of 5 June -- wild cold winds, poor visibility and nasty seas which together with the four hours on, four hours off hand steering, proved very tiring. These conditions lasted until we arrived in Spain.

Next day we discovered that a leak had developed in the fresh water system and that the galley pressure pump had emptied our water tanks into the bilge. We did have a warning light to show the pump was on, but with the constant attention to steering had not noticed it. Fortunately we had a reserve 5 gallons in plastic cans, but decided to head for the closer La Coruna instead of Bayona as planned, a decision made not just because of the water situation -- tiredness tilted the scales.

We arrived at La Coruna on 7 June and remained there three days. During our stay we relaxed, with most of our time spent on repairs and checking out various pieces of sails and equipment. However we did make one concession and went by coach to Santiago de Compostela where we visited the cathedral, a well rewarded effort as we were very impressed.

On leaving La Coruna we met, of course, a cold northwesterly force 4 which increased during the first night to force 6-7 with angry seas that came from all directions. This made progress slow and we covered only ninety miles in twenty hours. We did have an occasional wave sneak along the deck and try to throw itself into the cockpit. All the way from Dublin we had had the canvas side-screens in place and never was I so glad of a sheltered cockpit with a solid `lid' and windscreen. The wind and seas continued to cause discomfort and on one occasion, after falling what seemed like 15 feet off a wave, we reefed all the way to storm sail area and on that full day made only 70 miles. We had poor weather to within a few miles of Funchal, Madeira, where we arrived on the wet morning of 17 June.

Our stay in Funchal was pleasant, but marred by being charged marina fees for lying five deep along a breakwater without even a ladder to assist in climbing the wall. The toilets were unusable because of the smell and filth, a condition the harbour staff were fully aware of as they kept apologizing for same. The customs were their usual officious selves with one official after another requiring documents to be completed. I had experienced this in cruising the Algarve the previous year and could only wonder, as citizens of the EC are subject to such officialdom, what must it be like for non EC nationals? We had intended getting in some sight seeing, however it rained a lot during our stay and with the low cloud there was not much point.

We left Madeira after three days under full sail and for the first time were sailing without sweaters. We were heading for archipelago Number Three, the Salvagens, which are on the direct route for the Canaries. We had intended securing a landing permit in Funchal but did not get around to it. We passed slowly through the archipelago without stopping. We had intended to anchor, but timed our arrival badly -- night was upon us, and with the wind getting up and considering the dangers of the area and the questionable chart accuracy decided to head direct for Puerto de Mogan, Gran Canaria.

The choice of Puerto de Mogan was forced on us as the autopilot had chewed up both its drive belt and the spare during the wild rides we had experienced, and a visit to the Autohelm agent in Puerto de Mogan was a necessity.

Again we experienced a wild two days of high winds and rough seas. At least we thought they were wild, but worse was to come when, on the approach to the north end of Gran Canaria, we entered the wind acceleration zone. The pilot book warned of these and advised against the passage between Gran Canaria and Tenerife. We decided to reef well in advance so as not to be caught out, but to take the direct route to Puerto de Mogan which was through this passage. It really blew from the north, at least force 8, accompanied by such high seas that it was all we could do to keep the yacht under control. I dread to think what would have happened if we had not been prepared.

Puerto de Mogan is a very modern, clean marina which looks as if a mountain has been blasted away and the debris used to construct a town and port. All facilities are available and we had repairs carried out very efficiently, leaving us ready for sea the next morning. We had to get moving as both our wives were waiting for us at Puerto de Colon in Tenerife. Before leaving Puerto de Mogan the skipper of a sportfishing vessel had advised us that the acceleration zone winds were strong and at that time were four miles wide and three miles offshore. The day was windless and the sea calm as we left for the trip to Tenerife under motor, and we wondered if the advice was wrong. It was not. Exactly three miles out we were hit by a high wind -- except for ripples on the water, without warning -- which put us on our beam ends and lasted for exactly four miles.

On arrival at Puerto de Colon we were told there was no way we would be allowed to stay. However, we did eventually get permission to stay for four nights and at very reasonable rates, all much to the amazement of the expatriates who would not believe we got permission without producing a gun. It seems visitors are definitely not welcome.

After a most pleasant visit we moved up the coast to Puerto de Los Gigantes for a further three days. Then our wives returned home and we left for Sao Miguel in the Azores and archipelago Number Five. Here we experienced the first pleasant sailing weather since Dublin. All of June had been cold, stormy and most unpleasant, but now with the wind at force 3 in the right direction and warm, all of that was forgotten. We had two days of complete calm on the passage north and during that time ran into a school of yellowback tuna which travelled with us and which provided us with lunch on three days running. Marvellous.

The fair weather was too good to last, however, and on 5 July the wind got up and blew a `hooley' from the northwest. We went down to storm jib only and after some hours left Nicolisa to steer herself with the jib backed whilst we `hit the bunks'. We were so tired of bad weather, and as we were off the shipping lanes decided to take a chance. It is an indication of my exhaustion that I did so, as I had been rammed a couple of years previously by a French yacht running without lights in the Bay of Biscay. The skipper was singlehanded and asleep below.

The storm lasted about eight hours, after which we had nice sailing and motor-sailing all the way to Ponta Delgada, Sao Miguel. This proved the most enjoyable stay of the trip, socialising with other sailors and drinking beer at 70p a pint. The Azores are well worth the effort in getting there and the very pleasant local people unspoiled by tourism.

It was with regret that we left Ponta Delgada on 12 July. The day was clear with little wind, but on rounding Punta do Arnel at the east end of the island the breeze came up westerly force 3 and did not vary by more than 1 knot or one degree for seven days. What sailing! We even had a long following swell and beautiful warm weather -- it made up for all the hardship experienced during the month of June. The only blight on the horizon was that the autopilot stripped its gears and finally gave up the ghost just as we left Sao Miguel, leaving us no option but to stand and hand steer all the way to Ireland, four hours on, four off, for eleven days. It took some of the pleasure out of the trip, but only some. The passage to Dublin was marvelous and, at up to l4O miles per day, fast. We could have made it in one day less, but being so short-handed plus having to stand at the wheel steering, we sailed at much less than 100 percent efficiency. Comfort and energy conservation were a greater priority than speed.

On arrival back in the River Liffey we were informed of the wonderful weather they had had all summer. We pointed out our experience, especially during June, but are still awaiting sympathy.