ROMANCE IN ABACO

Denis and Sarah Kearney

Sarah and I have cruised for three years in the Caribbean and America aboard our Najad 441 Shimoda, and decided to make one last visit to the Bahamas to spend the winter before returning to the Mediterranean this summer. We chose Abaco, despite some fellow cruisers' advice that the winters there would be 'interesting' weather-wise - which indeed proved to be the case. Cold fronts make their way across from southern USA with depressing regularity, bringing with them a variety of wind strengths and directions, interspersed with dramatic thunderstorms.

One night in the Bahamas we were watching one of God's firework displays (He does such a good job of them, don't you think?) when there was a sudden explosion which shook the boat, and a brilliant white flash immediately followed by what appeared to be a bright orange fireball right beside us. Our first thought was that we had been hit, but everything was still working. One helpful American later braved the maelstrom in his dinghy to come over and ask, "Did y'all get your ass fried over here?" to which the answer was "No", but we never did find out exactly what had happened.

We had heard horror stories of navigating the Gulf Stream in the Florida Straits during even medium strength winds from the north, so we didn't do that. In February we elected to leave from Fort Pierce in a gentle southeasterly, make a 14 mile southing, and then hang a left across the Gulf Stream towards West End, Bahamas. This worked well and we were tied up in the marina after less than eight hours.

First job - Customs and Immigration, the office is right in the marina. A smartly dressed but un-smiling official sat behind his desk and after a while looked up.

"Help you?"

"We would like to check-in, please."

"Fill these forms in." (They did learn their bureaucracy from the Brits, so we can't complain). 15 minutes later, paperwork done.

"That'll be $100."

"Thank you."

"Do you want to fish?"

"Does it cost extra?"

"No."

"Then we'll fish, thanks, bye."

"Humph!" - A man of few words.

Now to check in to the marina - at 65 cents per foot, 35 cents per KW/hour for electricity and $5 per day for water, plus free bicycles, not bad, particularly as there is nowhere to anchor with all-round protection. There are two sea swimming areas close by the marina, one on each side, both offering reasonable snorkelling. In the evening we were walking with our friends Jack and Cindy and their shitsu dog PITA (acronym for Pain In The Ass) along the beach, trying to decide where to swim. Suddenly the water became an explosion of foaming white and red just feet from the beach, and we witnessed the wildly snapping jaws of a shark making short work of a large bluefish. PITA barked and ran away (sensible dog). Jack took two paces into the shallow water and stole the front half of the bluefish from the shark (foolish man) it weighed 4 or 5 lbs. "OK folks, where to swim? Love to but don't think so right now, got this fish to barbecue". The fish was excellent (even PITA the coward had some) so next day we decided to buy some more, but this was not so easy. We are told that Woolfie, the sports-fishing charter boat, might have some fish when it gets back. Woolfie arrives back late, not a good sign. I look down onto their deck, "Any fish for sale?" says I. Baleful stares from the charterers - who had paid hundreds of dollars for the day's fishing and were crouching protectively over their pitifully small plastic bags, containing their equally pitiful catch - gave me my answer. I didn't hang around.

From West End a narrow cut known as Indian Cay leads across the shallows. The charts show 5ft (1·5m) at mean low water, but they are not known for their accuracy - hurricanes can change a lot of features. The tide should give us 2ft 7in, we draw 6ft 9in*, "let's go for it" I bravely say to the assembled company of five boats, "it'll save us four hours". "Great idea'" they say, and so it was that Shimoda led the flotilla out next morning. They have decided that as we draw more than anyone else it is the right thing to do! Our depth alarm, set at 1ft under the keel, is constantly going off but we make it through, not helped much by comments from Jack in the order of, "Going so slowly doesn't make it any deeper". Alright for him back there in my wake, watching carefully for the sudden stop. A beautiful sunny sailing day, 15 knots on the beam, 12ft (3·7m) of crystal clear water and we are counting the starfish on the bottom (no sharks).

We anchored overnight at Great Sale Cay, a lovely place with palm trees, white sand, good swimming, but no fish (or sharks!). Moved on next day to Hawksbill Cay and Foxtown, which is now partially refurbished after great damage from Hurricane Floyd. This 1999 hurricane inflicted major damage all over Abaco. The trillions of tons of sand it nonchalantly moved around is just one of the reasons that charted depths are unreliable. Foxtown is a low key little settlement, with not much to buy and beer expensive at $4 a bottle. This accounts for the over-laden boats coming from the USA, where Budweiser can be had for 50 cents a can at any Publix store! Then on to Spanish Cay, where we went into the marina for lunch and to wait out a line squall with strong winds and rain (free stay for up to two hours providing we bought lunch). Hamburger n'chips came to $18 plus tip (which accounts for the over-laden boats, etc etc). $1·65 per foot plus electricity plus water accounted for the all but empty marina.

Then on to Coopers Town, peaceful and charming. The Bahamian Prime Minister has a house here. Hot Tip: Could this be the place to watch for rising property prices? Just a thought.

After a day sail to Powell Cay (very pretty, average snorkelling, some fish - couldn't catch 'em though, no sharks!) we returned to Coopers Town before setting off next morning to Green Turtle Cay. Green Turtle Cay offers White Sound and Black Sound, the former deeper, the latter closer to New Plymouth. We elected to go for White Sound, depth alarm going mad all the way in. The grassy bottom required careful anchoring. We set our 60lb Bruce and seven times the depth of chain - we'd have liked more but there was not enough room. The wind clocked around the compass as cold fronts went through. One started with winds of 20-30 knots, rising to 40 knots. The anchor held all night, but when the wind dropped in the morning it dragged - weird. We can recommend Green Turtle Cay for an extended stay - it has very pretty beaches, amazing shells and the town of New Plymouth is delightful.

From Green Turtle Cay we had to pass through Whale Cay Cut out into the Atlantic in order to re-enter the Sea of Abaco. Whale Cay Cut is notorious. Winds from the north (and storms far away) kick up what is called 'The Rage' - enormous rollers where the deep Atlantic meets 12ft (3·7m) depth. The local Abaco net on VHF Channel 68 gives good forecasts at 0815 every day. Bless the Americans - they have really organised the communications here and many also do great work locally raising money for worthy causes. Well done them, say I. We have found them to be genuinely helpful and very friendly everywhere we have been.

We went to Marsh Harbour hoping to collect some papers sent from England three weeks earlier. We had decided to get married in Hope Town. Well - we've known each other for twelve years, lived together for six and been cruising together for three. Some wag said, "At that rate the marriage should last eighteen months". Ho ho. The papers were not at the post office, however. (NB: we've heard it can take a long time to get mail, if it ever arrives, so be careful). Vernon (our minister, who is also the local baker) cannot perform the ceremony without the papers. Deep gloom. Future in-laws to the rescue - John, Sarah's Dad, has brought out copies, just in case (he always was a belt 'n' braces man, thankfully). Off to the Administrators' office to get the application signed. Nobody can sign, they have all gone to Nassau to a conference! "But we're getting married tomorrow," says we. "No you ain't, bro', not without a signature on these here papers". A lovely lady said she thought there was a woman working in an estate agents downtown who was a JP and could sign. We found her, and she signed. "You can get married," says Vernon. Hooray! (Charge $100, plus another $100 if I want the word "obey" included). I went for the cheapie and took a risk that I would not need "obey".

The weather obliged, though it was touch and go as we had over 12 inches of rain in the previous couple of days. Sarah arrived aboard a much-decorated Shimoda from Calista, Jack and Cindy's boat, conveyed in our equally well-decorated dinghy driven by her Dad. Smiles and a smattering of applause from the assembled cruisers greeted her. Jack was best man and PITA (the dog) a flower girl. The service was delightful, the words very moving and so appropriate for such a lovely place. We could not have made a better decision and if the rest of the marriage goes as well as the wedding we'll be well pleased. We recommend it to anybody considering getting married aboard - or you could always re-confirm your vows (it would give you a chance to miss out "obey" this time!).

Since our wedding we have spent some time cruising this lovely, if shallow, 'lake' and have enjoyed it. The winter weather is fickle, as I have said, but we did have some really good sailing days. We caught some small fish (grunt, very tasty) and we did not get eaten by sharks, not that I was at all bothered - it was Sarah that was scared! We were told that if we were scared of sharks (not me of course, but Sarah) we should swim during the middle of the day. Real sharks don't do lunch or something - very modern.

If you decide to visit the Sea of Abaco, do get a copy of Steve Dodge's Cruising Guide To Abaco (ISBN 0-932265-60-X) in advance. It will give you all the information you need to make the most of the area. Although there probably isn't a place on earth which is totally crime free, Abaco feels as though it is. The people are friendly and helpful but laid back, so don't expect anything to be done in a tearing hurry. Stock up well with long-life goods before you come, as although everything is available on the islands prices are high. Use American dollars - they are on par with the Bahamian dollar, which, although it sports the Queen's head, does not have such worldwide acceptance (how things change). There are automatic teller machines in Marsh Harbour and probably elsewhere - we didn't see any, but then we weren't looking. Telephones are unreliable, but we always managed to find one for our PocketMail and UK calls. We used an AT&T card, purchased from Sam's Club (a division of Wal Mart) in the States, which was good value. Marsh Harbour is the place to meet your guests as they can fly from Miami. Finally, Marsh Harbour is also known as 'Velcro Harbour' - the best holding in Abaco.

The best anchor for Abaco? This could be debated for hours (and is). Grass is the biggest problem - Fortress and Danforth types cut through it, but in the clocking winds there is always the possibility of tripping out. The Bruce usually re-sets and doesn't trip, but if grass 'balls' up in the claw it can bounce along the surface. The CQR might be the best overall, as its ploughing action shrugs aside the grass as it cuts through, but we don't have a CQR so I've no first hand experience. Using two anchors can give problems with clocking winds tangling the warps, and we have seen boats dragging a big bundle of chain, warp and two anchors smartly backwards - try untangling that lot in 40 knots of wind! There are, of course, many other anchor designs - Delta and such - and you will no doubt have your favourite for use in grass.

Moorings in the popular places need to be booked in advance and these are, of course, at a premium when strong winds are forecast. Marinas charge around 80 cents per foot and 35 cents per KW/hour for electricity. Water varies from a fixed charge of around $6 per day to 30 cents per US gall. Diesel is $2·38 per US gallon.

Our thanks to Abaco and its people for a lovely time and happy memories. We plan to return for our fifth wedding anniversary.

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